Makes the case for a plant-based diet which is good for our bodies, good…
Old or New?

- Description
- Reviews
- Citation
- Cataloging
- Transcript
If you are not affiliated with a college or university, and are interested in watching this film, please register as an individual and login to rent this film. Already registered? Login to rent this film. This film is also available on our home streaming platform, OVID.tv.
The very future of food -- and farming -- is being re-imagined in a city where nobody dined out 20 years ago, where there is no national tradition of gastronomy, and where there is considerable malnutrition. But in the capital of Peru, a city not so long ago wracked by Shining Path terrorist violence, the top chefs -- men and women like Gaston Acurio, Javier Wong and Pedro Miguel Schiaffino -- believe gastronomy can achieve social justice.
Can this model really meet the challenge of providing enough food for 9.5 billion people by 2050? Scientists at Lima's agricultural university say we just can't afford to ignore the new models of industrial agriculture in favor of traditional methods. Is there room in the mix for the old and the new?
'Old or New? presents both sides of the debate, and highlights the crucial issue of the contrast between local, sustainable, community-based agriculture and high-yield industrialized techniques. Can the survival on the future be only based in the past? Is it a black and white choice or, as chef Gaston Acurio suggests, is it possible to find a way to integrate the two?' Fabio Parasecoli, Associate Professor and Coordinator of Food Studies, The New School, Author, Bite Me! Food in Popular Culture, co-Editor, Cultural History of Food
'Old or New? is a fascinating look at how Peruvian chefs, agronomists, and farmers are working together to protect heritage products grown and used for hundreds of years by incorporating them into an explosive and creative new regional and national cuisine. Peruvian chefs are seeking out new ingredients from around the country while agricultural planners are working to help farmers provide for these expanding markets, and farmers are earning money and renowned for their products.' Jane Fajans, Professor of Anthropology, Cornell University, Author, Brazilian Food: Race, Class and Identity in Regional Cuisines
'Very impressive. These films present current problems in global food production and consumption with unstinting clarity. They highlight figures who advocate for indigenous crops without simply turning back the clock or giving in to the Western model of industrial scale agriculture. They propose models which value the local economy and yet think progressively in ways that will help people deal with rising population and increasingly volatile market for foodstuffs. These are thinkers, activists, politicians and farmers who will shape the future of food around the world.' Ken Albala, Professor of History, University of the Pacific, Author, Beans: A History
Citation
Main credits
Richards, Jenny (Producer)
Cabello, Ernesto (Director)
Bradshaw, Steve (Film editor)
Other credits
Music, Audio Network, Educardo Barbaran Haime, Manuel Barron Garcia; camera, Ricardo Cabellos ... [et al.]; editor, Fabricio Deza.
Distributor subjects
Agriculture; Anthropology; Biotechnology; Developing World; Economics; Food And Nutrition; Global Issues; Globalization; Latin American Studies; Local Economies; Sociology; Sustainability; Sustainable Development; Urban StudiesKeywords
00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:03.380
In the year 2050, there will
be 9 billion people.
00:00:08.160 --> 00:00:12.430
How do we feed them safely,
fairly, and well, and make
00:00:12.430 --> 00:00:14.200
sure every mouth is fed?
00:00:14.200 --> 00:00:32.390
Narrator: In the kitchens of the
future, say the chefs of
00:00:35.020 --> 00:00:41.160
Peru, food will be cooked
amid the flames of love.
00:00:41.160 --> 00:00:43.970
- Without love, you
cannot be a chef.
00:00:43.970 --> 00:00:47.660
Narrator: And eaten
with wisdom.
00:00:49.150 --> 00:00:51.830
- In the future, people will
concentrate on eating better,
00:00:56.225 --> 00:00:57.475
not eating more.
00:00:57.475 --> 00:01:00.190
Narrator: With chefs,
our guiding light.
00:01:03.520 --> 00:01:06.380
- What's more nutritious
and what's not?
00:01:06.380 --> 00:01:10.890
It's very important that we
learn about that, no?
00:01:10.890 --> 00:01:13.410
Narrator: Peru's rock
star chefs hoping
00:01:13.410 --> 00:01:14.820
to inspire us all.
00:01:14.820 --> 00:01:17.790
- Peru is like a laboratory.
00:01:20.600 --> 00:01:24.960
You can apply its discoveries
to the rest of the world.
00:01:24.960 --> 00:01:29.000
Narrator: They have their own
vision of future food.
00:01:29.000 --> 00:01:31.130
- I think it's about time
to stop and look a
00:01:31.130 --> 00:01:33.120
little more at the past.
00:01:33.120 --> 00:01:37.400
Narrator: But are Peru's chefs
right in claiming the past can
00:01:37.400 --> 00:01:39.540
show us how to feed
the future?
00:01:39.540 --> 00:01:48.980
Narrator: On the coast of the
Pacific, Lima, the capital of
00:01:51.600 --> 00:01:57.060
Peru, has become the center of
a revolution in gastronomy.
00:01:57.060 --> 00:02:00.200
Every year, tens of thousands
flock to its festival of
00:02:00.200 --> 00:02:02.970
agricultural biodiversity.
00:02:02.970 --> 00:02:06.800
Peru's newly found reputation
for cuisine based on fresh
00:02:06.800 --> 00:02:10.970
ingredients supplied by
traditional organic farmers,
00:02:10.970 --> 00:02:12.220
like Emilia.
00:02:12.220 --> 00:02:14.310
- This is yana sara, used to
prepare our purple corn drink.
00:02:20.940 --> 00:02:23.505
This also helps relieve
pregnancy inflammation.
00:02:23.505 --> 00:02:29.030
Narrator: Traditional local
produce, challenging chefs to
00:02:31.490 --> 00:02:33.730
find new ways of cooking.
00:02:33.730 --> 00:02:38.220
Crops produced by farmers
guaranteed a fair living.
00:02:38.220 --> 00:02:41.230
These are the ingredients Peru's
radical chefs are using
00:02:41.230 --> 00:02:46.180
to challenge processed food and
high intensity farming.
00:02:46.180 --> 00:02:50.180
The guru of this revolution,
Gaston Acurio, one of the
00:02:50.180 --> 00:02:52.440
world's top dozen chefs.
00:02:52.440 --> 00:02:55.830
Future food, he says, also
means future justice.
00:02:55.830 --> 00:02:59.010
- It is clear that finality,
after centuries, there is a
00:03:01.890 --> 00:03:05.780
different outlook between the
diners of the city and the
00:03:05.780 --> 00:03:08.120
Peruvian farmers.
00:03:08.120 --> 00:03:11.400
Peru is the only country in the
world where cuisine is no
00:03:11.400 --> 00:03:15.160
longer about playing frivolous
games, insensitive games, and
00:03:15.160 --> 00:03:19.790
has instead become an authentic
social weapon.
00:03:19.790 --> 00:03:22.570
Narrator: But could using
food and cuisine as a
00:03:22.570 --> 00:03:24.970
social weapon be a risk?
00:03:24.970 --> 00:03:28.120
- It would be very dangerous for
us to completely go away
00:03:28.120 --> 00:03:31.260
from high input agriculture
until we've figured out that
00:03:31.260 --> 00:03:34.270
we can produce enough food
with lower input, more
00:03:34.270 --> 00:03:37.320
agroecological approaches.
00:03:37.320 --> 00:03:40.740
So I think it's prudent for us
to continue both of those kind
00:03:40.740 --> 00:03:43.426
of systems.
00:03:43.426 --> 00:03:46.840
Narrator: Ayacucho, 300
miles from Lima
00:03:46.840 --> 00:03:49.220
and the Andes Mountains.
00:03:49.220 --> 00:03:54.040
Still haunted by memories of a
bloodthirsty Maoist insurgency
00:03:54.040 --> 00:03:55.715
and police brutality.
00:03:55.715 --> 00:03:58.470
Three decades ago, a country
tearing itself apart, where
00:04:02.430 --> 00:04:06.110
you couldn't dine out at all for
fear of terrorist bombs or
00:04:06.110 --> 00:04:07.360
the secret police.
00:04:07.360 --> 00:04:11.430
But today, the men in Jeeps are
chefs from Lima, here to
00:04:16.019 --> 00:04:18.410
meet the farmers and their
leader, Edilberto.
00:04:18.410 --> 00:04:22.260
Narrator: Top Lima chef Ivan
Kisic, riding out with fellow
00:04:26.685 --> 00:04:30.710
chefs and farmers who
grow his food.
00:04:30.710 --> 00:04:34.870
It's a demonstration of
solidarity, a trip back in
00:04:34.870 --> 00:04:38.230
time to pay homage to Pachamama,
Mother Earth.
00:04:38.230 --> 00:04:48.480
- You share a bit with the
farmers, and you live the
00:04:50.590 --> 00:04:53.590
experience of harvesting, making
offerings to the land
00:04:53.590 --> 00:04:55.860
and respect toward
the Pachamama.
00:04:55.860 --> 00:04:59.420
And this will result in us
revaluing our land, which is
00:04:59.420 --> 00:05:01.850
what we are aiming for,
to revalue what
00:05:01.850 --> 00:05:04.810
we have now in Peru.
00:05:04.810 --> 00:05:06.860
Narrator: They've ridden far
away from the world of
00:05:06.860 --> 00:05:11.200
monocrop prairies and factory
farms, burgers, soda, and
00:05:11.200 --> 00:05:14.160
sliced bread.
00:05:14.160 --> 00:05:16.960
By thanking Mother Earth, these
chefs and farmers are
00:05:16.960 --> 00:05:20.210
pledging themselves to a
different kind of future food
00:05:20.210 --> 00:05:22.430
and future farming.
00:05:22.430 --> 00:05:26.050
They believe the secret to a
sustainable future lies in the
00:05:26.050 --> 00:05:30.330
past, in the mountains which
were once a birthplace of
00:05:30.330 --> 00:05:31.580
world agriculture.
00:05:31.580 --> 00:05:33.730
- Peru has the capacity to
solve the problem of food
00:05:36.620 --> 00:05:38.600
availability in this country.
00:05:38.600 --> 00:05:42.310
And it's not just about food,
because we also have our
00:05:42.310 --> 00:05:43.500
history and culture.
00:05:43.500 --> 00:05:47.600
And we have roots here from
thousands of years ago.
00:05:47.600 --> 00:05:51.110
While in Mesopotamia they were
domesticating wheat, here in
00:05:51.110 --> 00:05:53.740
Peru, we were doing that
with the potato
00:05:53.740 --> 00:05:59.320
about 8,000 years ago.
00:05:59.320 --> 00:06:02.300
Narrator: They're ceremonially
planting seed potatoes in
00:06:02.300 --> 00:06:04.070
homage to the past.
00:06:04.070 --> 00:06:08.745
But these farmers also rely
on potatoes for food and a
00:06:08.745 --> 00:06:12.820
living, growing potatoes
organically, no artificial
00:06:12.820 --> 00:06:17.760
fertilizers, fungicides,
and little technology.
00:06:17.760 --> 00:06:21.440
What Ivan and the other chefs
believe: there should still be
00:06:21.440 --> 00:06:25.140
a future for old farming
methods, traditional crops,
00:06:25.140 --> 00:06:26.390
and small farmers.
00:06:26.390 --> 00:06:32.230
- For many years, we chefs have
found it really unfair
00:06:35.185 --> 00:06:39.070
that the principal producers,
who make it possible for us to
00:06:39.070 --> 00:06:42.100
cook and to have food on
our tables, do not
00:06:42.100 --> 00:06:43.350
have a decent life.
00:06:43.350 --> 00:06:46.570
So we are moving on very quickly
in terms of technology
00:06:49.610 --> 00:06:50.630
and cuisine.
00:06:50.630 --> 00:06:54.040
And I think it's about time to
stop for a while and look a
00:06:54.040 --> 00:06:55.290
little more at the past.
00:06:55.290 --> 00:07:00.640
Narrator: But is there really
a message for the world in
00:07:03.460 --> 00:07:07.190
Peru's ancient farming
culture?
00:07:07.190 --> 00:07:08.660
Peru's geography--
00:07:08.660 --> 00:07:11.230
high mountains and
lush jungles--
00:07:11.230 --> 00:07:15.280
doesn't particularly favor
modern agricultural practices.
00:07:15.280 --> 00:07:18.970
Small farmers with niche
products go with the terrain,
00:07:18.970 --> 00:07:20.380
and have done for millennia.
00:07:20.380 --> 00:07:24.065
- Although geographically, Peru
is not really suitable
00:07:27.480 --> 00:07:31.400
for agriculture, ancient
Peruvians developed
00:07:31.400 --> 00:07:35.410
agriculture even in the high
peaks in the Andes.
00:07:35.410 --> 00:07:39.240
Currently, the main producers
of these goods are still the
00:07:39.240 --> 00:07:42.955
small-scale farmers in the rural
and native communities.
00:07:42.955 --> 00:07:46.480
- If we think about Peru as
a country 20 years ago, we
00:07:50.740 --> 00:07:54.290
would've thought that it was
a country-- a failed state.
00:07:54.290 --> 00:07:59.170
And the food revolution that
we're experiencing now has
00:07:59.170 --> 00:08:03.890
really given the country an
opportunity for building peace
00:08:03.890 --> 00:08:07.090
and for contributing to
social inclusion.
00:08:07.090 --> 00:08:11.880
And now people living in the
most remote places in Peru,
00:08:11.880 --> 00:08:17.160
they have a sense of self-esteem
self-worth which
00:08:17.160 --> 00:08:19.590
they never had 20 years ago.
00:08:19.590 --> 00:08:24.920
Narrator: 200 kilometers north
of Lima, the Huaraz Highlands.
00:08:24.920 --> 00:08:27.810
Margarita's both farmer
and cook.
00:08:27.810 --> 00:08:31.830
- This dish is made with herbs
and many potatoes.
00:08:34.629 --> 00:08:38.809
I learned to cook this
from my mother.
00:08:41.070 --> 00:08:46.210
Every potato has its different
flavor and taste.
00:08:49.955 --> 00:08:56.680
Only women can keep in
their memories the
00:08:59.550 --> 00:09:00.800
names of the potatoes.
00:09:00.800 --> 00:09:03.752
In our fair, we swap potatoes,
and so we can restore these
00:09:08.960 --> 00:09:11.502
old varieties.
00:09:11.502 --> 00:09:14.790
Narrator: Margarita and her
neighbors grow old varieties
00:09:14.790 --> 00:09:19.270
of potato people haven't even
heard of outside the Andes.
00:09:19.270 --> 00:09:23.480
Ancient food and ancient
agricultural practices, low
00:09:23.480 --> 00:09:25.730
input organic farming.
00:09:25.730 --> 00:09:29.660
So why can't these mountain
crops compete better with all
00:09:29.660 --> 00:09:33.230
the bread and noodles
invading Peru?
00:09:33.230 --> 00:09:37.365
In Lima, there are people who
believe they can, especially
00:09:37.365 --> 00:09:41.620
at Peru's International
Potato Center.
00:09:41.620 --> 00:09:44.820
Margarita's come to meet Dr.
Maria Scurrah, who's
00:09:44.820 --> 00:09:49.825
responsible for preserving
Peru's potato heritage.
00:09:49.825 --> 00:09:52.280
- So let's have a look
at the potatoes you
00:09:52.280 --> 00:09:54.490
have brought here.
00:09:54.490 --> 00:09:55.550
Wow.
00:09:55.550 --> 00:09:59.860
Look at these beautiful
potatoes.
00:09:59.860 --> 00:10:04.220
- This potato is called
Black Bull Horn.
00:10:04.220 --> 00:10:08.490
This potato is called
Puma Hand.
00:10:08.490 --> 00:10:11.790
This is Long Side.
00:10:11.790 --> 00:10:15.390
This is Beautiful
White Potato.
00:10:15.390 --> 00:10:18.960
This is Beautiful But Blue.
00:10:18.960 --> 00:10:22.180
Narrator: Ancient potatoes, a
little more romantic than
00:10:22.180 --> 00:10:25.750
modern grain and
wheat hybrids.
00:10:25.750 --> 00:10:26.685
- Thank you.
00:10:26.685 --> 00:10:30.810
CIP and humankind thank you
because you have been able to
00:10:30.810 --> 00:10:34.570
keep these precious potatoes
as a food source for the
00:10:34.570 --> 00:10:35.820
future of us all.
00:10:35.820 --> 00:10:38.380
Narrator: Malabar, one of the
world's top restaurants, the
00:10:41.430 --> 00:10:44.525
creation of Pedro Miguel
Schiaffino.
00:10:44.525 --> 00:10:48.470
He prizes Peru's ancient
potatoes for their taste,
00:10:48.470 --> 00:10:52.590
variety, and nutritional value,
precious old potatoes
00:10:52.590 --> 00:10:54.410
found not just in museums.
00:10:54.410 --> 00:10:59.720
You've never seen eggs
and chips like this.
00:11:02.560 --> 00:11:06.650
So, what does Pedro make of
Margarita's latest shipment
00:11:10.540 --> 00:11:12.880
from the Andes?
00:11:12.880 --> 00:11:14.410
- Let's see what we have here.
00:11:14.410 --> 00:11:17.660
Look at these beautiful
potatoes.
00:11:19.920 --> 00:11:21.030
Wow.
00:11:21.030 --> 00:11:22.280
Nice.
00:11:22.280 --> 00:11:26.050
We've been working with naked
potatoes for several years,
00:11:29.600 --> 00:11:32.420
about six or seven years before
native potatoes were
00:11:32.420 --> 00:11:37.000
known about or eaten as they
are eaten right now.
00:11:37.000 --> 00:11:41.760
I first knew of them as gift
potatoes, with shapes, colors,
00:11:41.760 --> 00:11:45.410
flavors, and textures,
thin skins, thick
00:11:45.410 --> 00:11:49.310
skins, sweet and bitter.
00:11:49.310 --> 00:11:53.660
The future will rely not on the
quantity of food we have.
00:11:53.660 --> 00:11:55.430
Instead, we're going
to go through
00:11:55.430 --> 00:11:57.020
a process of selection.
00:11:57.020 --> 00:11:59.580
And we're going to pick the
more nutritious food.
00:11:59.580 --> 00:12:02.270
Narrator: And potatoes are not
alone among those forgotten
00:12:05.520 --> 00:12:07.235
future foods from the past.
00:12:07.235 --> 00:12:10.910
In an unfashionable Lima suburb,
behind an unmarked
00:12:14.470 --> 00:12:19.880
door, meet the followers of
radical chef Javier Wong.
00:12:19.880 --> 00:12:23.100
Working from home, Javier became
one of Lima's most
00:12:23.100 --> 00:12:28.930
renowned chefs entirely through,
well, word of mouth.
00:12:28.930 --> 00:12:31.130
Fresh fish and fresh
vegetables.
00:12:31.130 --> 00:12:33.650
No potatoes, few
carbohydrates.
00:12:33.650 --> 00:12:36.460
A brief chat and a dish designed
and cooked just for
00:12:39.500 --> 00:12:41.700
you with love.
00:12:41.700 --> 00:12:45.870
- Without love, you
cannot be a chef.
00:12:49.980 --> 00:12:52.350
A cook has to be a pragmatic
dreamer.
00:12:52.350 --> 00:12:55.200
In the case of gastronomy,
we have that license.
00:12:59.350 --> 00:13:02.770
We do not have antagonisms.
00:13:02.770 --> 00:13:05.260
That's why we can make
dreams come true.
00:13:05.260 --> 00:13:09.870
Narrator: Every day, Javier's
off to market.
00:13:12.820 --> 00:13:16.628
He's looking not just for fresh
fish but for old crops
00:13:16.628 --> 00:13:20.890
wrongly neglected, future food
from the Andes and the Amazon.
00:13:20.890 --> 00:13:24.160
- The Amazon is the future of
food supply and the cure of
00:13:28.300 --> 00:13:29.550
many diseases.
00:13:29.550 --> 00:13:31.390
This is the pituca,
or Chinese potato.
00:13:34.950 --> 00:13:38.130
These grow in wild forms in
the boundaries between the
00:13:38.130 --> 00:13:41.800
highlands and the jungle.
00:13:41.800 --> 00:13:45.730
It is growing massively, and
its flour is much more
00:13:45.730 --> 00:13:47.510
nutritious than wheat flour.
00:13:47.510 --> 00:13:50.460
And the price for a kilo of
noodles made of this powder
00:13:53.580 --> 00:14:00.670
will not be more than $0.10.
00:14:00.670 --> 00:14:03.170
Narrator: In a more fashionable
Lima suburb,
00:14:03.170 --> 00:14:05.390
another unmarked restaurant.
00:14:05.390 --> 00:14:09.680
Chef Pedro Miguel, about to open
his new venture, Amaz,
00:14:09.680 --> 00:14:13.260
devoted to the Amazon, an
ancient, overlooked food
00:14:13.260 --> 00:14:17.080
source for the future.
00:14:17.080 --> 00:14:19.940
- The Amazon cuisine, which is
shared by nine different
00:14:19.940 --> 00:14:24.130
countries, is not yet
widely spread.
00:14:24.130 --> 00:14:28.750
So products from the Amazon are
really important, because
00:14:28.750 --> 00:14:31.600
they can contribute to the food
sources for the future.
00:14:31.600 --> 00:14:35.910
Narrator: Not everyone in Lima
can dine in world-class
00:14:38.830 --> 00:14:40.080
restaurants.
00:14:40.080 --> 00:14:42.278
A people's canteen, one of many
in Lima's poor suburbs.
00:14:47.300 --> 00:14:48.960
No fancy diners here.
00:14:48.960 --> 00:14:52.190
These are the homeless and
welfare recipients.
00:14:52.190 --> 00:14:57.230
But they're not eating canned
soup or junk food.
00:14:57.230 --> 00:15:01.010
Lima's top chefs cater
for the poor, too.
00:15:01.010 --> 00:15:05.120
The menu here, designed by the
late Maria Santos, whose
00:15:05.120 --> 00:15:06.590
daughter, Elena, is
now in charge.
00:15:06.590 --> 00:15:09.690
Elena is also looking for
nutritious new ingredients
00:15:12.670 --> 00:15:15.460
from old places, like the
Amazon and Andes.
00:15:15.460 --> 00:15:18.532
- There are plenty of products
that we do know about.
00:15:21.820 --> 00:15:23.350
It's very important.
00:15:23.350 --> 00:15:27.090
The whole country knows
what we really have.
00:15:27.090 --> 00:15:29.560
What's more nutritious
and what's not?
00:15:29.560 --> 00:15:36.430
It's very important that we
learn about that, no?
00:15:36.430 --> 00:15:38.350
Narrator: There's forgotten
nutritious food
00:15:38.350 --> 00:15:41.220
from the seas, too.
00:15:41.220 --> 00:15:45.180
Five in the morning in Lima's
vast fish market, supplying
00:15:45.180 --> 00:15:49.480
restaurants, shops,
and canteens.
00:15:49.480 --> 00:15:50.760
There's one fish that
we couldn't
00:15:50.760 --> 00:15:53.690
find: the humble anchoveta.
00:15:53.690 --> 00:15:54.280
The reason?
00:15:54.280 --> 00:15:57.570
It's taken straight from the
boats, big and small, to be
00:15:57.570 --> 00:15:59.480
pulped and fed to farmed
salmon and
00:15:59.480 --> 00:16:02.850
chicken, largely abroad.
00:16:02.850 --> 00:16:06.120
Peru and its fishing industry do
well out of this lucrative
00:16:06.120 --> 00:16:08.620
global trade.
00:16:08.620 --> 00:16:12.600
But the anchoveta boats could
instead be feeding Peru's
00:16:12.600 --> 00:16:15.690
poor, according to this former
fishing minister.
00:16:15.690 --> 00:16:19.200
- So far, all attempts to
preserve the world's ecosystem
00:16:22.460 --> 00:16:26.290
have been focused on land
species rather than the marine
00:16:26.290 --> 00:16:30.275
species, which I think will be
the future world food source.
00:16:30.275 --> 00:16:33.300
Anchoveta is probably one of
the most nutritious species
00:16:38.030 --> 00:16:40.730
because of its high
fat content.
00:16:40.730 --> 00:16:44.890
It's widely available and can be
effectively used for direct
00:16:44.890 --> 00:16:46.140
human consumption.
00:16:46.140 --> 00:16:48.750
Narrator: With a bit of flair,
the humble old anchoveta could
00:16:51.730 --> 00:16:55.020
be just as fashionable as 21st
century farmed salmon.
00:16:55.020 --> 00:16:57.740
And here's another way
the chefs can help.
00:17:01.260 --> 00:17:04.220
Flavio Solorzano is off driving
30 miles to the
00:17:04.220 --> 00:17:08.810
cooking school in the shanty
town of Pachacutec, 100,000
00:17:08.810 --> 00:17:12.240
people living in the desert
sands, a fifth of their
00:17:12.240 --> 00:17:15.250
children anemic.
00:17:15.250 --> 00:17:20.004
Flavio teaches a free monthly
master class, other top Lima
00:17:20.004 --> 00:17:22.060
chefs helping out, too.
00:17:22.060 --> 00:17:25.540
They're training shantytown kids
to be professional chefs
00:17:25.540 --> 00:17:29.240
and helping the poor to eat
better by cooking better,
00:17:29.240 --> 00:17:31.210
including with humble
anchoveta.
00:17:31.210 --> 00:17:33.800
- So what we shall do are things
like this, using it in
00:17:37.040 --> 00:17:40.540
causa, fried, in charquican,
in whatever you want.
00:17:40.540 --> 00:17:42.410
We should promote the
consumption of anchoveta.
00:17:42.410 --> 00:17:45.260
Narrator: Here in the desert
cooking school, Flavio has a
00:17:47.960 --> 00:17:49.610
lesson for the world.
00:17:49.610 --> 00:17:53.160
Peru is a country of old and
forgotten foods that can feed
00:17:53.160 --> 00:17:57.240
both Peru and other countries
with larger and often more
00:17:57.240 --> 00:17:58.490
fertile lands.
00:17:58.490 --> 00:18:05.030
- Peru is like a laboratory.
00:18:06.970 --> 00:18:09.720
You can apply its discoveries
to the rest of the world,
00:18:09.720 --> 00:18:11.210
where there is much more land.
00:18:11.210 --> 00:18:15.000
In the near future, we hope the
consumption of quinoa and
00:18:18.960 --> 00:18:22.300
other grains from the Andes will
be common, recognized as
00:18:22.300 --> 00:18:24.050
parts of people's
everyday life.
00:18:24.050 --> 00:18:26.995
Narrator: With Peru's cornucopia
of crops, it's easy
00:18:30.450 --> 00:18:33.940
to believe opportunities to
feed Peruvians fairly and
00:18:33.940 --> 00:18:37.065
tastily in the future have
been overlooked.
00:18:37.065 --> 00:18:39.650
- As we have already shown
through the native potato
00:18:42.210 --> 00:18:45.500
revolution, country has
enough resources to be
00:18:45.500 --> 00:18:48.160
self-sustainable and even
to give to the world.
00:18:48.160 --> 00:18:51.840
But those resources, like the
farmers, were not appreciated
00:18:51.840 --> 00:18:53.090
for a long time.
00:18:53.090 --> 00:18:56.800
Narrator: Peru is a tourist
brochure country, its exotic
00:19:00.410 --> 00:19:03.540
variety of food crops reflecting
its varied
00:19:03.540 --> 00:19:04.970
landscapes.
00:19:04.970 --> 00:19:08.830
Whether majestic mountains or
the Amazon rainforest, people
00:19:08.830 --> 00:19:12.010
are closely attached
to the land.
00:19:12.010 --> 00:19:15.780
In Peru's markets, organic
produce is cherished.
00:19:15.780 --> 00:19:20.460
People and nature form a closely
knit ecology; farm
00:19:20.460 --> 00:19:23.820
animals like part
of the family.
00:19:23.820 --> 00:19:28.060
It's this biodiverse ancient
tapestry Peru's chefs want to
00:19:28.060 --> 00:19:29.430
preserve for the future.
00:19:29.430 --> 00:19:32.450
- Imagine changing a small piece
of land where you can
00:19:35.570 --> 00:19:38.540
have a couple of dozen
varieties of potato.
00:19:38.540 --> 00:19:41.150
Imagine changing the geography
of a place, where there's a
00:19:41.150 --> 00:19:44.230
lot of variety of crops all
helping each other, into
00:19:44.230 --> 00:19:45.480
monocrop farming.
00:19:45.480 --> 00:19:48.390
Narrator: Peru's chefs are
changing the global debate
00:19:51.110 --> 00:19:54.300
over the future of
food and farming.
00:19:54.300 --> 00:19:57.350
The most influential, Gaston
Acurio, has been called a
00:19:57.350 --> 00:20:00.410
politician working as a chef.
00:20:00.410 --> 00:20:04.140
Gaston and Javier Wong have
been active in politics,
00:20:04.140 --> 00:20:07.220
fighting moves to legalize
genetically modified, or GM,
00:20:07.220 --> 00:20:11.060
crops, insisting they're not
needed, at least in Peru.
00:20:11.060 --> 00:20:14.220
- We succeeded in persuading
the president not to sign a
00:20:17.320 --> 00:20:20.140
bill in favor of GM crops.
00:20:20.140 --> 00:20:24.110
I think that's the fairest
for chefs.
00:20:24.110 --> 00:20:26.660
Narrator: Feeding the world's
soaring population with
00:20:26.660 --> 00:20:30.020
organic food and old
farming ways.
00:20:30.020 --> 00:20:34.450
Even Peru's celebrated chefs
recognize their dream may not
00:20:34.450 --> 00:20:36.140
be the only answer.
00:20:36.140 --> 00:20:39.800
At Lima's agricultural
university, they say we just
00:20:43.450 --> 00:20:47.180
can't afford to ignore
the new.
00:20:47.180 --> 00:20:50.740
In his high-tech lab, top
microbiologist Dr. Marcel
00:20:50.740 --> 00:20:54.610
Gutierrez says the old organic
ways are great, but the
00:20:54.610 --> 00:20:58.320
figures just don't add up.
00:20:58.320 --> 00:21:01.650
- If we were thinking about
establishing organic
00:21:01.650 --> 00:21:04.660
agriculture in the planet,
we would actually
00:21:04.660 --> 00:21:06.730
need two planet Earths.
00:21:06.730 --> 00:21:10.130
This is the surface area we
would need to feed the
00:21:10.130 --> 00:21:13.030
population in the year 2050.
00:21:13.030 --> 00:21:15.060
And this is not possible.
00:21:15.060 --> 00:21:19.790
And it is also not possible
to deplete our forests.
00:21:19.790 --> 00:21:22.740
We need to take care
of the Amazon.
00:21:22.740 --> 00:21:28.090
So the best choice is to make
land more productive.
00:21:28.090 --> 00:21:30.960
Narrator: And the answer,
students here learn, science
00:21:30.960 --> 00:21:34.650
and technology, including
genetically modified, GM,
00:21:34.650 --> 00:21:38.870
transgenic crops, more bang
for our bucks than nature
00:21:38.870 --> 00:21:42.160
alone will allow.
00:21:42.160 --> 00:21:45.530
- We are not saying that
modern biotechnology--
00:21:45.530 --> 00:21:48.040
that means genetic
engineering--
00:21:48.040 --> 00:21:49.740
is the only way.
00:21:49.740 --> 00:21:54.070
What we are saying is that
without this technology, it is
00:21:54.070 --> 00:21:58.640
much harder to ensure food
sources for this population
00:21:58.640 --> 00:22:03.040
that is coming up to over nine
billion and will require food
00:22:03.040 --> 00:22:06.990
production to increase by 70%.
00:22:06.990 --> 00:22:10.955
Without modern biotechnology,
this won't be possible.
00:22:10.955 --> 00:22:13.520
Narrator: Students and teachers
at the university
00:22:15.890 --> 00:22:19.760
sell their own produce,
sometimes organic.
00:22:19.760 --> 00:22:23.030
But they have no objection
to local farms using the
00:22:23.030 --> 00:22:25.630
technology that keeps
so much of the world
00:22:25.630 --> 00:22:26.880
supplied with food.
00:22:26.880 --> 00:22:31.820
- It is silly, I think, to
confront biotech and GM
00:22:35.610 --> 00:22:38.740
farming with organic and pretend
it's a discussion
00:22:38.740 --> 00:22:43.130
between white and black or
to pretend our organic
00:22:43.130 --> 00:22:47.100
agriculture is a return to
the past and poverty, and
00:22:47.100 --> 00:22:50.850
agriculture with GM is a major
advance for the use of modern
00:22:50.850 --> 00:22:52.770
technology.
00:22:52.770 --> 00:22:55.700
Narrator: So will we have to
rely on the new to stock the
00:22:55.700 --> 00:22:59.310
shelves of the future as the
world's population expands to
00:22:59.310 --> 00:23:00.470
nine billion?
00:23:00.470 --> 00:23:04.770
Or can we also depend
on the old?
00:23:04.770 --> 00:23:09.010
What do studies from the world's
universities show?
00:23:09.010 --> 00:23:13.500
- Recent studies have shown that
lower input, more organic
00:23:13.500 --> 00:23:17.820
approaches to farming, can feed
a larger portion of the
00:23:17.820 --> 00:23:20.950
world's population than we
had previously thought.
00:23:20.950 --> 00:23:23.660
There's open debate about it
in the scientific fields.
00:23:23.660 --> 00:23:26.600
But the reason why it's
important is that currently,
00:23:26.600 --> 00:23:29.420
we feed large populations in
the world by high-input
00:23:29.420 --> 00:23:32.670
farming, which is not
sustainable in the long run,
00:23:32.670 --> 00:23:35.520
because it relies on fossil
fuels, which will run out and
00:23:35.520 --> 00:23:37.920
which will become more
expensive over time.
00:23:37.920 --> 00:23:40.690
And they are becoming more
expensive over time.
00:23:40.690 --> 00:23:43.560
So this is important for us to
build these kind of forms of
00:23:43.560 --> 00:23:48.270
farming that one can maybe not
produce as high yields as the
00:23:48.270 --> 00:23:51.310
most high-input farming but
produce yields that are high
00:23:51.310 --> 00:23:54.100
enough to feed the world's
population, especially in
00:23:54.100 --> 00:23:56.850
local areas and especially
in special markets.
00:23:56.850 --> 00:23:59.780
Narrator: In Lima, it's
supermarkets, not super chefs,
00:24:03.050 --> 00:24:06.080
who feed most people.
00:24:06.080 --> 00:24:09.200
So could more of us really
have a future with more
00:24:09.200 --> 00:24:12.350
low-input but high-taste food?
00:24:12.350 --> 00:24:15.980
Supporters of Lima's
chefs say yes.
00:24:15.980 --> 00:24:19.230
The real challenge is to use
food more intelligently.
00:24:19.230 --> 00:24:22.720
- What's true is that our
planet, with our current
00:24:25.600 --> 00:24:28.570
agricultural practices,
is producing enough.
00:24:28.570 --> 00:24:31.099
And hunger is not a consequence
of the lack of
00:24:31.099 --> 00:24:34.660
food but a consequence of bad
distribution of food.
00:24:34.660 --> 00:24:37.480
And it's also a consequence of
bad consumption habits in a
00:24:37.480 --> 00:24:40.520
lot of people.
00:24:40.520 --> 00:24:43.480
Narrator: Across town, it's the
launch of Peru's Native
00:24:43.480 --> 00:24:44.865
Potato Festival.
00:24:44.865 --> 00:24:47.910
For Peru's radical chefs,
another chance
00:24:47.910 --> 00:24:49.380
to push their message.
00:24:49.380 --> 00:24:54.150
Feeding the future means a
fair deal for farmers.
00:24:54.150 --> 00:24:57.180
- Clearly, we, as chefs, are
in a privileged position.
00:24:57.180 --> 00:25:01.150
And it's our duty to make sure
those involved in this chain
00:25:01.150 --> 00:25:04.430
have the same benefits,
opportunities, and successes
00:25:04.430 --> 00:25:06.550
that we have.
00:25:06.550 --> 00:25:09.630
Narrator: Local alliance,
global implications.
00:25:09.630 --> 00:25:13.510
The world's third-biggest staple
crop, the potato, could
00:25:13.510 --> 00:25:16.360
feed still more.
00:25:16.360 --> 00:25:19.430
- I believe the most important
thing for us is to seal this
00:25:19.430 --> 00:25:23.850
alliance, seal this alliance
based on trust, approach, and
00:25:23.850 --> 00:25:27.610
values between farmers
and chefs.
00:25:27.610 --> 00:25:30.930
We Peruvian farmers are able
to feed the Peruvian
00:25:30.930 --> 00:25:32.840
population and the planet.
00:25:32.840 --> 00:25:36.100
- If the rest of the world
really replicates the Peruvian
00:25:39.480 --> 00:25:44.660
model, and people in the rest
of the world start being so
00:25:44.660 --> 00:25:48.000
interested as Peruvians in
their food and in their
00:25:48.000 --> 00:25:51.810
history and in their gastronomy,
this will bring a
00:25:51.810 --> 00:25:54.410
new opportunity for the
smallholder agriculture, the
00:25:54.410 --> 00:25:57.850
smallholder farmers also.
00:25:57.850 --> 00:26:00.090
Narrator: Small farmers feeding
the future with
00:26:00.090 --> 00:26:02.450
sustainable agriculture.
00:26:02.450 --> 00:26:06.030
But with food prices soaring
and worldwide malnutrition,
00:26:06.030 --> 00:26:09.270
could it be too much
of a risk?
00:26:09.270 --> 00:26:12.110
- The future farming, I think,
has a number of trajectories.
00:26:12.110 --> 00:26:16.340
One of those would be this
more holistic attempt and
00:26:16.340 --> 00:26:20.230
interest by people to be part
of a community that is
00:26:20.230 --> 00:26:22.670
biodiverse, that produces
complicated foods, that
00:26:22.670 --> 00:26:24.200
produces good foods.
00:26:24.200 --> 00:26:28.420
But there also will always be a
future for heavy production
00:26:28.420 --> 00:26:29.830
agriculture.
00:26:29.830 --> 00:26:32.740
It's hard for us to get away
from that because it produces
00:26:32.740 --> 00:26:35.280
so much food for so many people
around the world.
00:26:35.280 --> 00:26:39.090
Narrator: Chef Gaston
Acurio agrees.
00:26:42.130 --> 00:26:45.660
Working together, Peru's big and
small farmers could be a
00:26:45.660 --> 00:26:49.820
model for feeding the planet,
a model inspired by
00:26:49.820 --> 00:26:52.410
patriotism, profit,
and potatoes.
00:26:52.410 --> 00:26:55.350
- I believe in integration, in
how we can take part in the
00:26:59.520 --> 00:27:04.490
same process, where we convince
ourselves of our
00:27:04.490 --> 00:27:08.460
responsibilities
for the future.
00:27:08.460 --> 00:27:13.040
It's in this balance between the
small farming in harmony
00:27:13.040 --> 00:27:16.860
with medium and large
agriculture where Peru will
00:27:16.860 --> 00:27:21.740
become a beautiful
world food power.
00:27:21.740 --> 00:27:24.190
Narrator: Old food
the new way.
00:27:24.190 --> 00:27:27.376
It's the Peruvian dream
of future food.
Distributor: Bullfrog Films
Length: 29 minutes
Date: 2013
Genre: Expository
Language: English
Grade: 7-12, College, Adults
Closed Captioning: Available
Interactive Transcript: Available
Existing customers, please log in to view this film.
New to Docuseek? Register to request a quote.