As the first Native woman brewery owner in the U.S., Shyla Sheppard draws…
Three Days of Glory
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Three Days of Glory is the first-ever documentary feature to take you inside the Burgundy region of France. Filmed in the vineyards and cellars over the course of the unprecedented 2016 vintage, this film is an insider's tour of and love-letter to Burgundy. You'll meet the vignerons, both superstars and unsung heroes, see the legendary and never-before-filmed celebrations, the triumphs and the harsh realities, and witness the indomitable spirit of the Burgundians.
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France; Agriculture and Food; Agriculture Sector; Cultural Sector; Documentary Films; European History; Rural Studies; Environment; Business; CommunityKeywords
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City Hall
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as front part is very, very old.
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This is certainly.
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From 14 to 15th Century.
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Been in the same family since
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somewhere in the in
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the late 1400s.
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The first wine I ever drank that,
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that so totally blew my mind.
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I knew there was something
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transcendent going on there that
I couldn't explain and couldn't describe.
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This is sort of like where it all started for me right here.
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This is it.
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‘59 La Tâche.
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That is the wine that started it all for me.
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That is my epiphany.
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That's the one that just blew my mind when
I was 15 years old and set me down
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this path. That has me
00:02:23.140 --> 00:02:24.600
here today.
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Burgundy...it's really captured my heart.
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It's become a piece of my soul and my life.
00:03:11.190 --> 00:03:13.400
As I got deeper into Burgundy over the years,
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you start hearing about this event called
La Paulée de Meursault also, and it's always spoken
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of with this tone of reverence and awe.
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And then I actually got a chance to go
for the first time to the Paulée de Meursault.
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And it not only lived up to, but
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vastly exceeded my wildest imagination.
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Before you can understand and really appreciate these events.
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It's important to to understand and learn
a little bit more about Burgundy.
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I believe Burgundy is as much an idea
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as it is a physical place.
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People
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look to Burgundy for inspiration.
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When you open that magical bottle,
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you get the sense
that there is something beyond just us.
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And whether people attribute
that to something
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that is godlike or it is simply
another type of spirituality.
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I don't know, but I can remember...
it was close to 40 years ago...
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but I can still remember that
first magical bottle of burgundy
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that I had, and I had the definite sensation
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that there was something bigger than me in
just that particular moment.
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For me, I think before everything, it's an inheritance.
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The idea of Burgundy is an inheritance,
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because it was constructed over the centuries,
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and I see it as something that is evolving endlessly,
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from the work of the monks,
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the work of the peasant farmers,
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the work of the nobility and the bourgeois,
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then the winemaker-owners,
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who have collectively built a vineyard region.
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What we have to day
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is a heritage.
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It's this extraordinary heritage
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of knowhow, of a
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certain philosophy
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that was invented many centuries ago.
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And that is still alive today.
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This idea of “climats” you know.
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Make wine that expressed the place
where they come from.
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Every vigneron in Burgundy is sure
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of what he does.
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First, it's my country of love
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because my heart is here.
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Second, it's
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two words tradition and respect
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for me, Burgundy. Tradition, because it's
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a very, very old
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country, for the wine producing
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The terroir.
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It's so magical because
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you could walk 50 meters
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and then slowly the soil is changing.
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So you produce different wine.
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So, Burgundy, is essentially the terroir.
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We have soils that are very different from each other,
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that are separated by very short distances.
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it's the terroir that makes the magic of Burgundy.
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I think people probably
have this idea of Burgundy,
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maybe they've seen the maps and they think
it's this big sprawling place.
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It's actually very, very small.
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You take the famous village of Volnay
and literally 1,500 meters away,
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you're into the vines of Pommard.
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And then these famous Burgundian
winemakers that you read about that
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these are humble farmers,
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then these are people
that have small estates of 15 to 20 acres
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that are more than likely supporting
three generations.
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The current owners, their kids
and their parents,
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who are retired but still need to get
some income from the estate.
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So they're sitting on the most valuable
vineyard land on the planet.
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But none of them are
what you would call getting wealthy.
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Burgundy is complicated
because you have so many different
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climates, so many different producers,
so many vintages, of course.
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But that's what makes Burgundy fun
and interesting.
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The complexity is not a difficulty.
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It's also what make things attractive
for people to come in to discover.
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Burgundy wines are never boring.
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Burgundy has a reputation
of being very difficult
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to understand, and it does
have its nuances and complexities.
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But at the end of the day,
it's pretty simple.
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The red wine is made from Pinot Noir,
the white wines are made from Chardonnay,
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and they are the best Pinot Noirs
and the best Chardonnays on the planet.
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Probably more than anything else.
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It's that respect for the land.
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It's the land that gives the beauty.
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And when you think that
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this has been going on now
in certain parcels for 2,000 years or more,
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when you look at that continuity
of never having been broken
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for a 2,000 year span,
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I think it is not a stretch to believe
that the Burgundian mindset
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is very much attached to the land
that gives the fruit,
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that then allows the winemaker to
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to do what they do with the fruit
to create the wine that we love
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so much.
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What is Burgundy?
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History.
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Heritage.
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Which is, I believe,
we have so much inheritance.
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It's also, of course, the beauty
of all the wines we produce.
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And I think for me part of Burgundy
is also transmission of the knowhow
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because that's how we learned about
Burgundy, which is not an easy region.
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And I think
Burgundy is also about this history
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that we need to pass on.
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It's really the human element
that is the most important.
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There's clearly no better place on earth
to grow Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.
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But but that's only part of the story.
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It is what the individual people
and their heritage,
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their family connection
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to the parcels of land, their philosophies
and their practices
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that make the difference
between good and great wines.
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And there's
this incredible spirit of generosity
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that you find in Burgundy, which is maybe
pretty unique to to the world of wine.
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The producers seem genuinely happy
to share their wines
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with you, take you into their cellars,
tasting through the barrels.
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You really get the sense
that they are absolutely enjoying it.
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How old is the oldest bottle here?
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‘29. 1929.
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1929.
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Wow.
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It was the first harvest,
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the first vingtage of my grandfather..
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Wow.
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How many are left?
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Maybe 10 of those.
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The old bottles is for family and friends
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just to share all the old memories
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of Burgundy.
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Thiébault Huber.
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He is the first one out in the vineyards every morning.
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He's the last guy out of the party at night.
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He's one of those people full of energy.
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He's the definition of someone who loves
what he does and lives for
00:12:03.510 --> 00:12:04.510
when he does.
00:12:11.270 --> 00:12:13.940
It seems that we are
00:12:13.940 --> 00:12:16.900
the guardians of jewels.
00:12:19.020 --> 00:12:20.320
Because
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we
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We have not the right to change this
the terroir,
00:12:26.820 --> 00:12:29.200
but we really need to preserve it
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and to make it bright.
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We have to be very careful
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with all terroir and for making wines
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that can make everybody in the world dream.
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Early on in his career,
he started farming biodynamically,
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which is a system of farming
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that takes organics to the next level,
meaning using
00:12:56.440 --> 00:13:01.230
no synthetic chemicals of any kind,
no toxins and treating the vineyards
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homeopathically.
00:13:04.150 --> 00:13:07.240
So he started that fairly early
on in his career and has since become
00:13:07.240 --> 00:13:11.160
one of the leaders, one of the gurus
in the biodynamic movement in Burgundy.
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I heard about biodynamic farming, but
I don't know exactly what it is.
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For me it was people in the stars
and the cosmic world.
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So it was a little bit strange for me.
00:13:24.260 --> 00:13:26.380
And I met different people.
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I read the different book and I said,
00:13:29.680 --> 00:13:33.060
okay, why I decide to be biodynamic?
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Is this: it's for me, it's the best farming
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to preserve the terroir.
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Just after the harvest,
00:13:41.690 --> 00:13:45.360
we just spray, yesterday night,
the 500 preparation.
00:13:45.570 --> 00:13:50.280
So we chose a biodynamic preparation
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just to send the message in the soil
and the plants.
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And then we sprayed in the evening
and the end of the day
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because it's a message to
the roots and to the soil.
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I'm so happy to be a winegrower
even if sometimes
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it's difficult.
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Defeat to see the result will be also.
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The taste for some of the standing
as well, that generally you don't.
00:14:18.140 --> 00:14:18.730
Get good.
00:14:50.840 --> 00:14:54.760
2016 is the opposite of 2015,
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a bad year in terms of weather
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with a big impact on the harvest,
00:15:00.690 --> 00:15:04.150
perhaps even on the quality, but above all the quantity.
00:15:06.360 --> 00:15:12.410
It's unlike anything we've seen in a long time.
00:15:14.070 --> 00:15:15.120
I lost
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70% of crop so it's the worst I've ever seen here
00:15:19.160 --> 00:15:22.250
at the domain. The Meursault vintage was down
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fie hectolitres per hectare
00:15:29.630 --> 00:15:34.140
I think we lost 65-70%.
00:15:35.510 --> 00:15:39.140
This one was hit by the frost.
00:15:39.140 --> 00:15:42.600
You can see the secondary shoots coming out.
00:15:42.600 --> 00:15:44.860
That's frozen, look here.
00:15:44.860 --> 00:15:46.690
But there are no grapes.
00:15:47.320 --> 00:15:48.860
Small producers are struggling.
00:15:48.860 --> 00:15:54.950
There is 3,500 of them and probably 3,400
of them are facing financial difficulties
00:15:54.950 --> 00:16:00.960
right now, because they’ve had small
vintages, several vintages in a row.
00:16:00.960 --> 00:16:02.830
In '12 I lost 80%,
00:16:02.830 --> 00:16:04.630
in '13 70%,
00:16:04.670 --> 00:16:06.380
in '14 60%,
00:16:06.380 --> 00:16:12.510
then this year 60-70%.
00:16:16.050 --> 00:16:18.930
‘09 was the last big vintage
00:16:19.310 --> 00:16:21.390
where we had quality and we had quantity.
00:16:22.140 --> 00:16:26.020
‘10 I believe was 25% to 40%
down on an average,
00:16:26.520 --> 00:16:31.110
‘11 was more or less okay, ’12 as we know,
00:16:31.650 --> 00:16:36.200
catastrophe, ‘13 The same 40% to 50% down.
00:16:36.700 --> 00:16:38.160
‘14 Okay.
00:16:38.160 --> 00:16:40.540
I think the Côte de Nuits did better than the rest.
00:16:41.160 --> 00:16:44.370
‘ 15 was down because it was a drought year.
00:16:45.540 --> 00:16:48.130
‘16 We had the same sort of thing,
drought year.
00:16:48.130 --> 00:16:51.210
But three weeks further on and then
we have this devastating frost in April,
00:16:52.260 --> 00:16:55.050
if you had to startup Vineyard
in Volnay and Pommard
00:16:55.510 --> 00:16:58.390
since 2009, you haven't basically
00:16:58.390 --> 00:17:01.770
you haven't made any wine,
there are three or four crops missing.
00:17:02.060 --> 00:17:06.150
So this has to have a knock-on effect.
00:17:06.150 --> 00:17:08.900
It's hard to make a business work
when you don't have product to sell,
00:17:09.480 --> 00:17:10.940
and that's what they're facing right now.
00:17:10.940 --> 00:17:15.820
So they're they're hanging in
by the skin of their teeth, most of them.
00:17:15.820 --> 00:17:20.200
So I think we're going to face
another year, maybe not, not one more.
00:17:20.450 --> 00:17:23.700
We won't have enough wine to supply
00:17:24.080 --> 00:17:26.080
all the markets.
00:17:34.590 --> 00:17:39.220
I remember going out into my courtyard
on the morning of the 27th of April
00:17:39.510 --> 00:17:43.100
and there was frost on my wife's
car's windscreen
00:17:43.100 --> 00:17:45.390
and I thought, Oh bugger.
00:17:47.190 --> 00:17:48.600
Yes, April 27
00:17:49.610 --> 00:17:50.810
was really a bad day.
00:17:50.810 --> 00:17:54.230
I think for me, I have a little bit
more than nine hectares.
00:17:54.610 --> 00:17:58.450
In 6 different villages, and I think I lose more than 70%.
00:17:59.280 --> 00:18:02.660
I was completely depressed
during ten days.
00:18:02.740 --> 00:18:07.040
I don't know what what's happened
the last time we have big frost like this,
00:18:07.250 --> 00:18:10.420
it was 1981,
00:18:11.710 --> 00:18:14.250
so I was 11
00:18:14.250 --> 00:18:16.050
Here it's good.
00:18:16.050 --> 00:18:17.670
There, frosted out.
00:18:17.670 --> 00:18:20.800
There, 2 clusters.
00:18:25.180 --> 00:18:26.600
Two clusters, yeah.
00:18:28.890 --> 00:18:33.150
So. We'll make 3 barrels, I think.
00:18:33.690 --> 00:18:36.240
If we get three barrels, that's okay.
00:18:36.900 --> 00:18:41.490
In 1981 it was not so important difference.
00:18:42.070 --> 00:18:45.580
This is really really unusual.
00:18:50.040 --> 00:18:52.790
Normally we have these big branches with
00:18:54.460 --> 00:18:56.760
two or three bunches on on each,
00:18:57.090 --> 00:19:00.840
but there is no more
and no new buds break.
00:19:00.840 --> 00:19:06.180
So actually we lose a lot of...
and even if there is new branches here,
00:19:06.640 --> 00:19:09.100
there is no more grapes.
00:19:09.100 --> 00:19:14.110
And these here were lost, so this vine here will make
00:19:14.110 --> 00:19:17.690
1, 2, 3, 4, 5 clusters.
00:19:17.690 --> 00:19:21.860
And normally we'd have 8 to 10.
00:19:21.860 --> 00:19:25.910
That means even though it looks almost normal,
00:19:25.910 --> 00:19:29.000
we've lost half of the potential harvest.
00:19:29.000 --> 00:19:31.330
And on each vine it's like that.
00:19:31.330 --> 00:19:34.250
The vine can appear healthy,
00:19:34.250 --> 00:19:36.920
but in fact we've already lost about half the crop.
00:19:39.880 --> 00:19:41.680
We could still make good wine.
00:19:41.680 --> 00:19:45.180
It's not a problem of quality,
but it will be a big trouble
00:19:45.180 --> 00:19:46.140
with the quantity.
00:19:46.140 --> 00:19:48.180
Sure, for sure.
00:19:48.180 --> 00:19:50.350
So even if there is no.
00:19:50.350 --> 00:19:52.310
No grapes on this one, maybe there is one.
00:19:52.310 --> 00:19:57.770
Yeah, but so we will spend a lot of time
to try to find it, have a little bunches
00:19:58.730 --> 00:20:00.780
make harvest so the costs will be the same,
00:20:01.030 --> 00:20:02.990
but for nothing.
00:20:07.200 --> 00:20:09.040
So it's a sad
00:20:11.910 --> 00:20:14.040
and I'm sad.
00:20:16.960 --> 00:20:21.050
Sad, because we lost money,
00:20:21.050 --> 00:20:23.090
but that's not what's really important.
00:20:23.090 --> 00:20:25.930
It's important, but what’s most important
00:20:25.970 --> 00:20:29.100
is that you can set free what you have in your head,
00:20:29.140 --> 00:20:33.270
to set free your idea of "Bourgogne,” the idea that you have
00:20:33.270 --> 00:20:36.560
of your Goutte d'or, your Bouches-Chères, your Charmes.
00:20:36.560 --> 00:20:40.030
They fly away, because every year you say
00:20:40.030 --> 00:20:45.160
that you're going to try to make them better than the last one.
00:20:58.670 --> 00:21:02.050
He is still to this day
a full time schoolteacher
00:21:02.050 --> 00:21:04.590
and the Burgundian village of Gevry Chambertin
Schoenberg town.
00:21:05.220 --> 00:21:08.760
He also happens to be one of the most
gifted and talented winemakers
00:21:08.760 --> 00:21:10.760
in all the Burgundy.
00:21:15.060 --> 00:21:16.520
And Patrick started working
00:21:16.520 --> 00:21:20.900
with his father in law, Michel,
20 some years ago, working side by side.
00:21:20.900 --> 00:21:24.110
And then has since taken
over the estate on his own.
00:21:27.910 --> 00:21:31.790
Patrick is another person
who is obsessed with wine to the point
00:21:31.790 --> 00:21:33.580
where it really is his entire life.
00:21:33.580 --> 00:21:36.040
He knows more about wine
than maybe anyone you'll ever meet
00:21:44.340 --> 00:21:47.510
We were all together around the table,
00:21:47.510 --> 00:21:51.100
and everyone had brought a bottle of Meursault Charmes,
00:21:51.100 --> 00:21:52.640
from 1979.
00:21:53.470 --> 00:21:57.190
And the game was to compare these different Charmes.
00:21:57.190 --> 00:21:59.810
And so there were 5 or 6 different examples of Charmes,
00:21:59.810 --> 00:22:03.190
that were made in the same way,
00:22:03.190 --> 00:22:05.610
that were vinified in essentially the same way,
00:22:05.610 --> 00:22:08.990
that came from the same place,
00:22:08.990 --> 00:22:11.070
and all the wines were different.
00:22:11.870 --> 00:22:16.790
I said to myself, "This is not possible."
00:22:16.790 --> 00:22:19.920
There is something magical about this.
00:22:19.920 --> 00:22:22.880
You're making Charmes, you vinify in the same way,
00:22:22.880 --> 00:22:26.670
yet each one had brought
00:22:26.670 --> 00:22:31.050
a little touch that made their wine different.
00:22:31.050 --> 00:22:33.140
I remember well.
00:22:33.140 --> 00:22:37.850
I was 23 years old, and that just fascinated me.
00:22:37.850 --> 00:22:40.350
It was then I said to myself,
00:22:40.350 --> 00:22:43.860
"one day I would like to know how to do this."
00:22:58.120 --> 00:23:03.090
There are those
who are now starting to question
00:23:03.920 --> 00:23:07.050
whether they can farm on
00:23:07.050 --> 00:23:12.010
what is almost a non-interventionist basis
and stay in business.
00:23:12.010 --> 00:23:18.100
These same growers that said once
the frost took three fourths of my crop
00:23:18.100 --> 00:23:21.480
and mildew was threatening the rest,
I couldn't afford to let it go.
00:23:21.650 --> 00:23:24.270
I had to treat conventionally
00:23:24.270 --> 00:23:26.860
and you can see emotion,
00:23:27.110 --> 00:23:30.320
you know, ten years of getting vines
00:23:30.320 --> 00:23:32.910
to develop their autoimmune systems
00:23:33.990 --> 00:23:35.120
and yet
00:23:35.580 --> 00:23:38.450
with no crop, you can't afford to lose it.
00:23:38.450 --> 00:23:41.790
For us working organically,
00:23:41.790 --> 00:23:43.580
without the use of chemical products,
00:23:43.580 --> 00:23:45.340
it was very tough.
00:23:45.340 --> 00:23:47.800
There are a lot of people who were farming organically
00:23:47.800 --> 00:23:50.050
who unfortunately had to change,
00:23:50.050 --> 00:23:52.550
or they would have lost their crop.
00:23:57.760 --> 00:23:59.720
It was very complicated.
00:23:59.720 --> 00:24:01.480
We had to do a lot of treatments.
00:24:01.480 --> 00:24:03.730
We harvested very little.
00:24:03.730 --> 00:24:05.690
It was a vintage very tough for us,
00:24:05.690 --> 00:24:06.940
especially in terms of cash flow.
00:24:08.070 --> 00:24:12.450
I've been organic for 17 years now.
00:24:12.450 --> 00:24:15.870
We have never resorted to using chemicals.
00:24:15.870 --> 00:24:18.660
This year I was a little tempted, but I didn't want to do it.
00:24:18.660 --> 00:24:21.000
We will stay organic 'til the end.
00:24:21.580 --> 00:24:23.370
I know I have some colleagues
00:24:23.370 --> 00:24:25.290
who did make the switch, unfortunately.
00:24:25.290 --> 00:24:27.840
It was very difficult, and I understand them.
00:24:27.840 --> 00:24:30.800
because you can't just lose an entire harvest.
00:24:34.380 --> 00:24:35.970
We lose more than I expected.
00:24:35.970 --> 00:24:37.600
So now, now it's.
00:24:37.600 --> 00:24:41.220
It's awful. Roll on ‘17
00:24:41.980 --> 00:24:44.440
because we all really, really
00:24:44.440 --> 00:24:46.860
want to forget this vintage.
00:24:46.860 --> 00:24:51.150
Unfortunately, we get this freeze end of April
00:24:51.690 --> 00:24:54.490
and then the spring was very, very rainy.
00:24:55.110 --> 00:24:57.570
So we have a big,
big pressure with mildew.
00:24:57.780 --> 00:25:01.750
So we lose a little bit more, especially
on organic and biodynamic farming.
00:25:02.500 --> 00:25:06.000
So, yes, it's the the smallest harvest
00:25:06.330 --> 00:25:09.790
that I did, I met, unfortunately.
00:25:10.000 --> 00:25:14.630
How much did you lose altogether?
00:25:14.630 --> 00:25:16.300
85%. You know, full name of our down.
00:25:19.300 --> 00:25:20.680
There is no Volnay Robardelle.
00:25:20.680 --> 00:25:22.680
There is no Volnay Premier Cru
00:25:22.680 --> 00:25:25.440
There is no Pommard Premier Cru
00:25:25.810 --> 00:25:28.980
No Pommard de [ indistinguishable ] so yes..
00:25:30.360 --> 00:25:31.900
It's an awful year
00:25:31.900 --> 00:25:36.570
We have, we really, really now
wait for ‘17 and a new vintage
00:25:36.570 --> 00:25:39.990
and a normal vintage and normal weather.
00:25:42.490 --> 00:25:45.790
Finally, we we had a very, very nice summertime.
00:25:46.160 --> 00:25:49.630
So the greaps...the few grapes we had
00:25:49.830 --> 00:25:52.000
were very, very nice,
00:25:53.670 --> 00:25:55.510
very well mature.
00:25:55.510 --> 00:26:00.100
So we would produce very nice wine,
but it will be very,
00:26:00.100 --> 00:26:02.680
very rare.
00:26:07.690 --> 00:26:09.850
Middle of June, I really, really
00:26:11.230 --> 00:26:13.820
think about stopping
00:26:14.190 --> 00:26:16.030
biodynamic farming.
00:26:16.440 --> 00:26:19.030
But no, I cannot do that.
00:26:19.030 --> 00:26:20.910
It's 15 years.
00:26:20.910 --> 00:26:24.240
I am organic, 11 years biodynamic.
00:26:25.580 --> 00:26:29.370
My and my ground never had any herbicide
00:26:29.540 --> 00:26:33.170
any fertilizers since more than 20 years.
00:26:36.170 --> 00:26:39.010
I cannot support another year or like ‘16.
00:26:39.630 --> 00:26:42.100
Next year I will start with...
00:26:42.800 --> 00:26:46.600
and we will see if we have something
similar to ‘16.
00:26:46.600 --> 00:26:49.810
I will stop for sure because I cannot.
00:26:49.810 --> 00:26:53.320
I have a family, I have four children
and I need to make money.
00:26:53.690 --> 00:26:55.150
I need to make business. So
00:26:56.320 --> 00:26:58.700
and it would be really, really hard next year.
00:26:58.700 --> 00:27:01.950
But I cannot support two years like this
at this moment.
00:27:01.950 --> 00:27:08.910
I'm still very motivated and I decided to
follow the biodynamic farming.
00:27:08.910 --> 00:27:13.960
But for sure,
if there is any trouble next year,
00:27:13.960 --> 00:27:16.500
I will try to save my life
00:27:17.210 --> 00:27:19.920
and my family life.
00:27:43.030 --> 00:27:45.580
So I kind of
00:27:45.580 --> 00:27:49.000
developed a kind of, yes,
pride of being here.
00:27:49.000 --> 00:27:52.540
I think it's one of the most
special places in the world, for one,
00:27:53.000 --> 00:27:55.500
and one of the few places
where the miracle sometimes
00:27:55.500 --> 00:27:57.130
happens.
00:28:02.050 --> 00:28:04.180
Fabio Montrasi.
00:28:04.180 --> 00:28:08.430
Unusual for a Burgundian vigneron
and that he is Italian.
00:28:08.430 --> 00:28:13.140
He was an architect in Milan,
his wife Claire is also an architect.
00:28:13.140 --> 00:28:15.480
And they met working at the same firm.
00:28:15.480 --> 00:28:18.690
And 20 some years ago
she inherited it from her mother's side
00:28:18.690 --> 00:28:22.530
of the family a stone,
the manor, a top of the hill, surrounded
00:28:22.530 --> 00:28:28.580
by a walled-in, rundown...at the time...15
acre vineyard.
00:28:28.580 --> 00:28:32.460
They moved onto the estate in 1994
and literally learned everything
00:28:32.620 --> 00:28:34.170
from the ground up.
00:28:34.170 --> 00:28:37.090
And fast forward to now
and they're making some of the absolute
00:28:37.090 --> 00:28:39.460
best wines in the region.
00:28:46.590 --> 00:28:51.980
I think we were lucky and I never felt
that I was badly or not accepted.
00:28:52.600 --> 00:28:55.850
I think that people who make good wine
don't have any secrets.
00:28:55.850 --> 00:28:57.980
They don't have a secret,
they just tell you what they do
00:28:57.980 --> 00:29:02.110
and then it's up to you
to do the same or not.
00:29:02.110 --> 00:29:06.240
And we part of the tradition
and part of the kind of expression
00:29:06.240 --> 00:29:09.990
of a form of culture as well.
00:29:14.750 --> 00:29:18.920
And the idea of how to grow
grapes has stayed the same.
00:29:18.920 --> 00:29:22.090
We are even going
sometimes back to older things.
00:29:23.050 --> 00:29:26.260
I think that Burgundy
is one of the few places on the earth
00:29:26.470 --> 00:29:30.050
where you still can manage to do that.
00:29:32.770 --> 00:29:37.310
We anticipated the average date
for starting the harvest in 20 years
00:29:37.770 --> 00:29:41.070
is now something like five six days
00:29:41.070 --> 00:29:43.400
earlier than what
it used to be in 20 years time.
00:29:44.190 --> 00:29:48.450
So we are more and more
there is strong climate.
00:29:49.120 --> 00:29:53.540
I do say events like strong wind,
very cold, very hot.
00:29:54.200 --> 00:29:56.210
You always have to be ready to improvise.
00:29:56.410 --> 00:29:59.250
This is somehow new.
00:30:35.950 --> 00:30:40.170
I am not for preventing people from investing.
00:30:40.170 --> 00:30:43.710
I think everyone has the right to invest.
00:30:45.630 --> 00:30:47.800
What bothers me is
00:30:47.800 --> 00:30:50.720
this makes vineyard prices shoot up.
00:30:50.930 --> 00:30:52.180
What disturbs me is
00:30:52.180 --> 00:30:54.430
when they buy no matter the price
00:30:54.430 --> 00:30:55.770
for a vineyard parcel
00:30:55.770 --> 00:30:57.980
just to get a "name."
00:31:18.620 --> 00:31:19.210
If there
00:31:19.210 --> 00:31:22.960
is something that I think
would be the death knell
00:31:23.380 --> 00:31:25.710
for the Burgundy that we know and love today,
00:31:26.590 --> 00:31:29.050
it's just money and greed.
00:31:29.050 --> 00:31:30.630
And I'm a capitalist.
00:31:30.630 --> 00:31:34.930
I believe in the good things
that capitalism can do.
00:31:35.560 --> 00:31:39.930
That said, not all
aspects of capitalism are admirable,
00:31:40.310 --> 00:31:44.940
and I think that there's got to be
some method put in place
00:31:45.520 --> 00:31:48.230
to protect the interests
of the small growers
00:31:48.230 --> 00:31:51.570
that can't amass the capital
to compete against the banks
00:31:51.570 --> 00:31:53.740
and insurance companies.
00:31:56.830 --> 00:31:59.040
And our vineyards are very,
very expensive.
00:31:59.290 --> 00:32:04.710
So sometimes we we need to sell
one of these parcels to get money.
00:32:05.420 --> 00:32:10.050
It's a pity, sure, but we have the chance
to have a lot of investor.
00:32:10.510 --> 00:32:12.760
They would like to have a piece
of Burgundy.
00:32:12.760 --> 00:32:14.720
So. Yes and
00:32:16.430 --> 00:32:19.390
we increase
the price of course of all wines.
00:32:19.640 --> 00:32:22.640
It's a pity for all the customer,
but otherwise
00:32:22.640 --> 00:32:24.150
we cannot survive.
00:32:28.360 --> 00:32:34.280
As we saw in the 1930s
where Burgundy’s soul was up for grabs.
00:32:34.280 --> 00:32:37.080
And for once the little guys won.
00:32:37.080 --> 00:32:40.240
It's a it's a great story about how
00:32:40.240 --> 00:32:43.540
what were essentially
the corporate interests of the time lost.
00:32:43.540 --> 00:32:44.500
That's rare.
00:32:44.500 --> 00:32:46.330
Usually money wins.
00:32:49.590 --> 00:32:52.970
There was a ravaging peasant
00:32:52.970 --> 00:32:57.010
by the name of phylloxera
that arrived in Burgundy in the 1870s.
00:32:57.010 --> 00:33:00.310
It completely wiped out
all the vineyards in France
00:33:02.230 --> 00:33:04.350
and there was no wine in Burgundy.
00:33:04.600 --> 00:33:08.650
However, a solution was found to graft French
00:33:10.020 --> 00:33:13.860
vines onto American rootstock
that were phylloxera resistant,
00:33:14.450 --> 00:33:17.820
and the south of France was a lot
less stubborn
00:33:18.200 --> 00:33:20.950
than the Burgundians,
who believed that their noble Pinot
00:33:20.950 --> 00:33:24.660
Noir would never succumb
to the ravages of phylloxera.
00:33:26.580 --> 00:33:28.290
The large negociants,
00:33:28.290 --> 00:33:32.050
meaning wine merchants
that basically ran Burgundy
00:33:32.050 --> 00:33:35.760
because of the way the system worked, was
the small vignaron would
00:33:36.720 --> 00:33:40.640
tend to vines make the wine
and then the negotiations
00:33:40.640 --> 00:33:42.180
would buy the wine in barrel
00:33:42.180 --> 00:33:45.690
and do the elevage,
which is a process of raising the wine
00:33:45.690 --> 00:33:49.150
to the point of putting it in bottle
and then commercializing it.
00:33:49.980 --> 00:33:53.110
Well, they had the same number of clients
with the same thirst
00:33:53.110 --> 00:33:55.280
that they always had,
but there was no wine here.
00:33:55.610 --> 00:33:58.870
And so they started to import wine
from the south of France,
00:33:58.870 --> 00:34:00.950
and it got to Beaune,
the railroad station
00:34:00.990 --> 00:34:03.870
that would say wine from southern France.
00:34:04.700 --> 00:34:08.290
They'd take it off and make it Clos
Vougeot or Richbourg or something else
00:34:08.750 --> 00:34:10.210
at a 10th of the price.
00:34:11.670 --> 00:34:13.250
And therefore the people that
00:34:13.250 --> 00:34:18.760
were actually making real Clos Vougeot or real
Richbourg could no longer compete.
00:34:18.760 --> 00:34:20.680
They were being driven out of business.
00:34:20.680 --> 00:34:23.470
And so there were eventually
in the early part
00:34:23.470 --> 00:34:25.680
of the 19th century, there were riots
00:34:26.730 --> 00:34:29.650
here, champagne and elsewhere.
00:34:29.650 --> 00:34:33.690
Slowly, slowly, slowly,
a system in the 1930s was put in place,
00:34:33.690 --> 00:34:38.700
which we know as the Appellation
‘Origine Controllée system was put in place
00:34:38.700 --> 00:34:42.700
in 1935 that protected the right to a place.
00:34:43.120 --> 00:34:46.750
And that is the big difference
between Burgundy and, say, Bordeaux today,
00:34:47.500 --> 00:34:51.040
where one chateau can buy another
and put it under its own name.
00:34:51.040 --> 00:34:54.880
Whereas here, if you buy another domain,
you still have to respect the place name
00:34:54.880 --> 00:34:56.840
that is that vineyard.
00:34:56.840 --> 00:35:02.470
And I think that is a system that has
endured now for the last 80 some years.
00:35:03.850 --> 00:35:05.640
And it
00:35:05.640 --> 00:35:08.680
infuses the way that the Burgundians.
00:35:09.060 --> 00:35:09.520
Grow their
00:35:09.520 --> 00:35:13.230
wines, make their wines, market
their wines, as well as the way consumers
00:35:13.230 --> 00:35:15.820
think about the wine.
00:35:16.150 --> 00:35:21.200
It's a matter of publicity, marketing.
00:35:21.200 --> 00:35:23.740
You could invest in the Grand Prix of Monaco,
00:35:23.740 --> 00:35:26.450
or buy a vineyard in Burgundy.
00:35:26.450 --> 00:35:30.000
To them, it's pretty much the same thing.
00:35:32.130 --> 00:35:33.250
We may very well
00:35:33.250 --> 00:35:36.000
see a lot more corporate money coming in
00:35:36.880 --> 00:35:40.010
because the small landholder here
can't afford
00:35:41.090 --> 00:35:42.930
to buy vineyards.
00:35:42.930 --> 00:35:46.600
And therefore, I think we're going to see
banks, insurance companies,
00:35:47.010 --> 00:35:49.930
wealthy individuals
and other corporate interests
00:35:49.930 --> 00:35:53.520
that are willing to accept a very,
very low
00:35:53.520 --> 00:35:57.820
cash return,
but expect that the appreciation
00:35:57.820 --> 00:36:01.240
of the underlying asset will,
in fact provide the ultimate return.
00:36:02.200 --> 00:36:06.580
The world of wine is firmly a part of this idea of luxury.
00:36:06.580 --> 00:36:10.870
It's there - and we put it there.
00:36:10.870 --> 00:36:16.340
Forever we've been trying to say "these are luxury goods,"
00:36:16.340 --> 00:36:17.630
and then today we go,
00:36:17.630 --> 00:36:21.720
"Ah, but that's not what we really want to be."
00:36:21.720 --> 00:36:24.390
Thus, we are a little naive.
00:36:24.640 --> 00:36:28.930
The risk of all of that
is that this attachment
00:36:29.140 --> 00:36:34.690
to the land that I mentioned that lies
at the heart of the Burgundian mentality
00:36:35.230 --> 00:36:38.190
is ultimately lost in the rush
00:36:38.190 --> 00:36:40.280
for corporate profit.c
00:36:54.420 --> 00:37:01.130
We took almost 200 square meters of a 1er Cru monopole, no less,
00:37:01.670 --> 00:37:02.970
to put in the swimming pool.
00:37:04.260 --> 00:37:06.680
My grandfather would not have been happy.
00:37:16.270 --> 00:37:18.730
Basically until this current generation,
00:37:19.190 --> 00:37:23.070
the Burgundian winemakers didn't
really have formal winemaking education.
00:37:23.070 --> 00:37:24.490
They learned how to grow grapes
00:37:24.490 --> 00:37:27.030
and make wine from their parents
and from their grandparents.
00:37:27.990 --> 00:37:31.080
Most of the best stuff
is probably still learned that way.
00:37:34.620 --> 00:37:40.670
So if you look up Burgundian winemaker in
the dictionary, very likely Thierry Violot-Guillemard’s
00:37:40.670 --> 00:37:43.420
picture is right there.
00:37:51.350 --> 00:37:53.220
He's not flashy,
he’s not refined.
00:37:53.770 --> 00:37:55.890
He is kind of on the rustic
and earthy side.
00:37:55.890 --> 00:37:59.360
Maybe a little rough around
the edges is definitely not the bon chic
00:37:59.360 --> 00:37:59.980
bon genre
00:38:00.980 --> 00:38:01.980
end of the wine world.
00:38:01.980 --> 00:38:04.780
He's he's the real deal. He's a farmer.
00:38:04.780 --> 00:38:07.240
His great grandfather was not a vigneron.
00:38:07.570 --> 00:38:10.780
But his wife, my grandmother, and her father,
00:38:10.780 --> 00:38:13.540
and grandfather, worked in the vineyards.
00:38:16.660 --> 00:38:22.380
We get along mostly very well.
00:38:22.380 --> 00:38:26.340
It's much nicer working with my dad
00:38:26.340 --> 00:38:30.800
than at another domaine with a boss.
00:38:32.680 --> 00:38:35.140
From when he was very little,
00:38:35.140 --> 00:38:37.640
he was always running in the vines,
00:38:37.640 --> 00:38:41.310
practically fully naked,
00:38:41.310 --> 00:38:44.610
he liked having his feet in the dirt.
00:38:45.740 --> 00:38:49.950
He wasn't really much of a student,
00:38:49.950 --> 00:38:54.160
he preferred being in the vineyards,
00:38:55.330 --> 00:38:57.330
which is pretty much normal.
00:38:57.330 --> 00:38:58.620
And that makes me happy,
00:38:58.620 --> 00:39:01.540
because I have someone to take over the estate.
00:39:03.630 --> 00:39:07.970
I'm learning bit by bit with him.
00:39:07.970 --> 00:39:17.480
He's right by my side for the vinifications and harvest.
00:39:19.890 --> 00:39:24.270
It's my second year, so there are a lot of things to learn.
00:39:24.270 --> 00:39:28.440
But I've got a good teacher, so it's all good.
00:39:45.210 --> 00:39:49.920
So what we've got now is essentially
a pretty vicious cycle where you've got
00:39:49.920 --> 00:39:54.760
demand going up for the wines, prices
also going up for the wines,
00:39:55.140 --> 00:39:59.140
the value of the vineyard land going up,
but the crops being small.
00:39:59.140 --> 00:40:01.850
So the availability of the product
is less.
00:40:02.480 --> 00:40:05.860
And then you have corporate interests
sitting on the outside
00:40:06.820 --> 00:40:09.490
ready to snap up and buy
these these prized vineyards,
00:40:09.490 --> 00:40:12.780
which would completely change
the dynamic of Burgundy.
00:40:13.160 --> 00:40:16.660
I do have some serious concerns
and worries
00:40:16.660 --> 00:40:19.080
about how some of these small producers
are going to survive.
00:40:20.370 --> 00:40:21.330
It's happened before
00:40:22.710 --> 00:40:24.460
most recently in the 1930s.
00:40:24.460 --> 00:40:29.380
Burgundy faced really,
really tough economic times, and back
00:40:29.380 --> 00:40:32.430
then they responded essentially
by throwing a massive
00:40:32.430 --> 00:40:33.260
party.
00:40:49.690 --> 00:40:52.860
So in the decade of the ‘30s,
Burgundy was hammered
00:40:52.860 --> 00:40:56.280
by a succession
of really terrible vintages.
00:40:56.620 --> 00:40:59.290
The US market
had been through prohibition.
00:40:59.290 --> 00:41:01.870
They'd also been through the Depression
and the stock market crash.
00:41:01.950 --> 00:41:05.290
We had really extreme
economic uncertainty in Europe.
00:41:05.290 --> 00:41:07.330
You were in between two world wars.
00:41:07.330 --> 00:41:10.590
You had these small growers
fighting against the negociants and
00:41:10.590 --> 00:41:14.340
the imported wine from the south of France
that they were labeling as Burgundy.
00:41:14.340 --> 00:41:18.220
It was sort of like the perfect storm
of bad things aligned against Burgundy.
00:41:18.930 --> 00:41:22.730
They decided to try and do
something about it and try and make
00:41:22.730 --> 00:41:26.100
some noise, attract some attention, get
people interested in the wines.
00:41:26.150 --> 00:41:29.110
All those forces combined
to make what we know today
00:41:29.110 --> 00:41:32.280
as Les Trois Glorieuses, the Three Days of Glory.
00:41:33.150 --> 00:41:36.410
It's a Saturday
night dinner at the Chateau de Vougeot
00:41:36.410 --> 00:41:39.620
put on the La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, it is
00:41:39.620 --> 00:41:42.750
the Sunday Hospice de Beaune auction
00:41:43.200 --> 00:41:46.830
and then La Paulée de Meursault, also a lunch on Monday.
00:41:49.670 --> 00:41:52.630
The first I'd tell you that for me
Burgundy is tradition
00:41:52.920 --> 00:41:56.550
this is tradition: Le Paulée, the end of the harvest
00:41:56.550 --> 00:41:58.930
it's a tradition
la vende vin it’s a tradition.
00:41:59.720 --> 00:42:03.060
My grandfather always talk about this
00:42:03.060 --> 00:42:04.390
today.
00:42:04.770 --> 00:42:07.600
All the customer
00:42:07.600 --> 00:42:12.440
from all over the world come for this
because we have a heavy history
00:42:12.440 --> 00:42:17.030
and heavy tradition.
00:42:17.030 --> 00:42:20.160
There are a lot of great wine
events around the world, certainly,
00:42:20.200 --> 00:42:25.370
but nothing competes on the same scale
as this weekend in Burgundy.
00:42:25.370 --> 00:42:26.410
It is off the charts.
00:42:30.880 --> 00:42:33.420
La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin
00:42:34.170 --> 00:42:39.260
which translates as the fraternity
of the Knights of the Tasting Cup was
00:42:39.300 --> 00:42:43.310
started by two very visionary vignerons,
Georges Falvey and Camille Rodeia.
00:42:43.600 --> 00:42:47.180
And they wanted to put forward the history
and the
00:42:47.430 --> 00:42:51.270
the heritage of great food and wine
that goes together in Burgundy.
00:42:52.270 --> 00:42:54.110
They have several events
00:42:54.110 --> 00:42:58.650
at the Chateau de Vougeot throughout the year,
but the most important and the most
00:42:58.650 --> 00:42:59.860
well known one is a dinner
00:42:59.860 --> 00:43:03.240
they do on Saturday night
to kick off the Trois Glorieuses weekend.
00:43:07.620 --> 00:43:11.630
So it actually started in the 1200s
that the Cistercian monks who lived
00:43:11.630 --> 00:43:14.710
and worked here made the wines
here in the cellars at the Chateau de Vougeot
00:43:14.710 --> 00:43:18.090
So these days it is the headquarters
00:43:18.090 --> 00:43:20.010
for a different kind of religion.
00:43:27.310 --> 00:43:32.770
So on the opening night of the Trois
Glorieuses is a bunch of people in black tie
00:43:33.110 --> 00:43:36.650
are crammed into a hot, crowded room
00:43:36.900 --> 00:43:42.320
and this is where
they induct their new members every year.
00:43:42.320 --> 00:43:46.660
And then afterwards, out in the courtyard,
that's when the bacchanalia begins.
00:43:48.540 --> 00:43:53.420
Maybe the most amazing thing about this
dinner is how good the food is.
00:43:53.460 --> 00:43:57.250
It's so difficult to cook at that level
for 600 or 700 people,
00:43:57.250 --> 00:44:00.090
but somehow they managed to pull it off.
They've got it down to a science.
00:45:28.640 --> 00:45:32.180
So the oldest part of this tradition
is the Hospices de Beaune auction.
00:45:32.180 --> 00:45:35.230
It happens on the third Sunday in November
every year.
00:45:35.690 --> 00:45:37.900
It started back in 1859.
00:45:37.900 --> 00:45:40.520
So that makes it the world's
oldest charity auction.
00:45:40.610 --> 00:45:43.570
And it's
under the auspices of the Hospice.
00:45:43.860 --> 00:45:46.030
de Beaune, better known as the Hotel Dieu.
00:45:46.030 --> 00:45:48.910
It's the charity hospital,
00:45:49.240 --> 00:45:52.700
it’s supported by donations from the church
and the nobility
00:45:52.750 --> 00:45:54.370
who were the only people in the Middle
00:45:54.370 --> 00:45:57.120
Ages up until the French Revolution
who could own vineyards.
00:45:57.710 --> 00:46:01.210
So they started donating vineyard parcels
to the Hospice,
00:46:01.210 --> 00:46:06.180
and then over the centuries, donations
of vineyard land continued to be made
00:46:06.180 --> 00:46:10.220
to the Hospice to the point where they are
now one of the largest vineyard holders
00:46:10.220 --> 00:46:11.010
in all of Burgundy.
00:46:11.010 --> 00:46:13.060
And they have their own winery
just outside of Beaune.
00:46:13.060 --> 00:46:15.890
They make the wines in that winery,
00:46:15.890 --> 00:46:18.690
and then every year
on the third Sunday in November,
00:46:19.270 --> 00:46:21.610
those wines are auctioned off barrel
by barrel.
00:46:21.820 --> 00:46:25.360
That auction is seen as a gauge
for the market
00:46:25.360 --> 00:46:26.820
for Burgundy.
00:46:30.870 --> 00:46:34.700
It happens these days
in the center of Beaune at the market hall
00:46:34.700 --> 00:46:37.330
for the Beaune Saturday Market.
00:46:37.330 --> 00:46:41.340
And then once a year it transforms into
the Vente de Vins...
00:46:41.340 --> 00:46:42.040
the wine sale.
00:47:32.010 --> 00:47:34.180
So the Paulée is at its roots,
00:47:34.350 --> 00:47:37.770
a special celebration
at the end of harvest
00:47:38.100 --> 00:47:43.400
taht each estate throws for the pickers and
the crew help them make wine that year.
00:47:43.610 --> 00:47:45.980
That's the basis
that sets the way the Paulée began.
00:47:45.980 --> 00:47:47.280
It's an ancient tradition.
00:47:49.740 --> 00:47:52.870
The Paulée, you know, is the name
of the feast at the end of the harvest.
00:47:53.370 --> 00:47:55.780
IIn my first play, I think, was
00:47:55.910 --> 00:47:59.290
when I was 14 or 15 at the domaine.
00:47:59.750 --> 00:48:02.370
And I still remember these long tables.
00:48:02.370 --> 00:48:07.460
With all the pickers
and it remains for me as a
00:48:07.800 --> 00:48:09.170
as a very bright moment.
00:48:12.930 --> 00:48:15.640
But when I was little,
I remember at the end of the harvest,
00:48:15.640 --> 00:48:19.520
my mother would come with lots
of baguettes and fromage and saussicions,
00:48:20.140 --> 00:48:22.440
and she would make all
these fantastic sandwiches
00:48:23.440 --> 00:48:24.610
and and we would
00:48:24.610 --> 00:48:27.940
get together with the team
and taste the new wine.
00:48:28.530 --> 00:48:29.230
We still do it.
00:48:29.230 --> 00:48:31.150
We do it for the team really works.
00:48:31.150 --> 00:48:33.610
Making the wine at the winery.
00:48:33.610 --> 00:48:37.280
You know,
there's an old saying that in Bordeaux,
00:48:37.330 --> 00:48:41.290
there's nothing to drink,
but everything is for sale...here...
00:48:41.290 --> 00:48:42.460
there's not much for sale,
but there's plenty to drink.
00:48:46.080 --> 00:48:48.500
The first notion was so many people
contributed
00:48:49.250 --> 00:48:51.470
in the making of the wine
00:48:51.630 --> 00:48:54.550
and they should be able
to share in the bounty
00:48:54.550 --> 00:48:57.800
of the harvest and what that represents
00:49:01.480 --> 00:49:08.190
We do a nice dinner, with good bottles from the domaine, and elsewhere,
00:49:08.190 --> 00:49:10.780
and then most of all we sing.
00:49:10.780 --> 00:49:14.820
We love to sing in Burgundy, you know?
00:49:14.820 --> 00:49:19.280
We've got lots of drinking songs,
00:49:19.280 --> 00:49:22.700
and we pass the night in song.
00:49:29.380 --> 00:49:31.760
Then in 1923
00:49:31.760 --> 00:49:34.090
le comte Jules Lafon and Jacques Prieur
00:49:34.510 --> 00:49:37.680
another big vineyard owner
in Meursault got the idea
00:49:37.680 --> 00:49:41.770
to maybe throw something a little
more special for the entire village.
00:49:41.770 --> 00:49:43.680
And they said, Well,
why don't we invite writers
00:49:43.680 --> 00:49:47.440
and some journalists and some celebrities
try and bring some attention and focus
00:49:47.440 --> 00:49:48.480
on what we're doing here.
00:49:48.480 --> 00:49:49.560
And they had all the vignerons
00:49:49.560 --> 00:49:52.570
bring extra bottles from their cellars
to share with everybody there.
00:49:52.900 --> 00:49:56.660
And so the Paulée de Meursault
became this third event
00:49:56.950 --> 00:49:59.910
of the Trois Glorieuses.
00:50:12.000 --> 00:50:12.880
Okay.
00:50:12.880 --> 00:50:15.380
Why is the Paulée being reproduced in New York
00:50:15.550 --> 00:50:17.840
It's been reproduced in California.
00:50:18.640 --> 00:50:23.020
That for me is on the the first level.
00:50:23.020 --> 00:50:25.600
That's Burgundy.
00:50:25.600 --> 00:50:31.360
So you have to imagine you're going to be
in a huge room where they serve
00:50:31.360 --> 00:50:36.030
an incredible lunch because it's
very well made this very well cooked with
00:50:36.990 --> 00:50:39.070
an incredible amount of
00:50:39.450 --> 00:50:42.580
fabulous, famous growers, winemakers
00:50:43.200 --> 00:50:45.790
who all bring their own bottles
to share with you.
00:50:48.290 --> 00:50:51.460
And just to see 600 people having
00:50:51.460 --> 00:50:54.590
what amounts to one massive party
00:50:55.630 --> 00:50:58.090
that just goes on for 6 hours
00:50:58.090 --> 00:50:59.180
at a shot.
00:50:59.760 --> 00:51:03.680
The concept of the Paulée
is that everyone who comes brings
00:51:04.010 --> 00:51:09.060
six or 12 or 24 bottles of amazing wines
from their own cellars.
00:51:09.060 --> 00:51:11.190
And these are all the top winemakers
in Burgundy.
00:51:23.280 --> 00:51:26.750
I think it's it's always been
the same kind of ambiance.
00:51:26.750 --> 00:51:28.160
Crazy ambiance.
00:51:28.160 --> 00:51:31.540
And the main reason is that it's
00:51:31.540 --> 00:51:35.670
first of all, it's a meeting of growers
of producers from Meursault
00:51:36.380 --> 00:51:41.090
And you have to understand
that it's a Monday after the wine auction
00:51:41.890 --> 00:51:46.260
and that really ends the year,
you know,
00:51:46.260 --> 00:51:50.140
we go through the vintage, harvest,
we make the wine,
00:51:50.810 --> 00:51:54.820
then there's that big stress of
the wine auction because it's very public.
00:51:54.820 --> 00:51:57.900
So everybody's a little bit
stressed by that wine auction thing
00:51:58.570 --> 00:52:00.860
and Monday it's all finished. Done.
00:52:00.860 --> 00:52:03.620
So anyway, it's party time for them.
00:52:06.330 --> 00:52:08.910
One of the objects is to pour to a lot of people.
00:52:09.250 --> 00:52:13.380
You have a lot of growers that
come to my table and offer me their wine.
00:52:13.380 --> 00:52:18.130
So I have to go back to their
seat, offer wines for them, for their guests.
00:52:18.630 --> 00:52:22.380
We spend a lot of time actually
walking around the aisles, pouring wine.
00:52:23.590 --> 00:52:26.140
When you get their at mid-day,
00:52:27.640 --> 00:52:28.390
the Chateau de Meursault,
00:52:28.390 --> 00:52:32.560
so you start with the aperitif,
then you go through to the main hall
00:52:33.310 --> 00:52:36.610
and then the thing starts
and then you virtually
00:52:36.610 --> 00:52:39.900
you've arrived at the dessert
and it's almost 7:00 at night.
00:52:41.610 --> 00:52:45.660
There are bottles coming in
from all sides.
00:52:45.660 --> 00:52:47.910
That is what you could call
a long day, you
00:53:41.090 --> 00:53:45.220
Veronique Drouhin, fourth generation
of the massively
00:53:45.220 --> 00:53:48.550
powerful Drouhin Family and Burgundy,
the most well-loved
00:53:48.550 --> 00:53:51.720
and well-liked person,
and maybe in the entire world of wine,
00:53:53.140 --> 00:53:55.140
there's not no one alive
who has met Veronique.
00:53:55.140 --> 00:53:56.440
That doesn't like Veronique.
00:53:56.440 --> 00:53:59.860
She has just genuine
warmth, light, passion,
00:53:59.980 --> 00:54:02.320
and a supremely talented winemaker.
00:54:03.150 --> 00:54:06.660
I loved the idea of being a winemaker
when I was very young.
00:54:06.660 --> 00:54:08.370
I was only ten years old.
00:54:08.370 --> 00:54:11.910
But I have three brothers and
a father and only boys were working.
00:54:11.910 --> 00:54:15.040
So I did not think this is something
I would do because women,
00:54:15.040 --> 00:54:17.670
you see them in the vineyards
or cooking for the guest.
00:54:19.250 --> 00:54:21.840
Laurence Jobard our long-time enologist
00:54:21.840 --> 00:54:25.300
Who retired in 2006,
was hired by my father.
00:54:25.590 --> 00:54:27.090
She was not even winemaker.
00:54:27.090 --> 00:54:29.180
She was very young and I was ten.
00:54:29.180 --> 00:54:32.510
But she was trained to become a winemaker
by my father.
00:54:33.180 --> 00:54:36.770
And naturally her father,
who is a producer a vigneron grower
00:54:36.770 --> 00:54:38.980
in Pommard, did not really encourage her,
00:54:39.690 --> 00:54:43.400
so she was trained really to run the lab,
and that's why my father hired him.
00:54:43.780 --> 00:54:46.860
But then he realized quickly
how fantastic her palate was.
00:54:46.860 --> 00:54:49.160
So he concluded her in his daily tasting.
00:54:49.490 --> 00:54:50.410
So it was basically he and
00:54:50.410 --> 00:54:55.370
Laurence, so yeah, she was the first female
winemaker in Burgundy.
00:54:56.660 --> 00:54:58.540
But then things have changed.
00:54:58.540 --> 00:55:00.040
Of course Laurence arrived.
00:55:00.040 --> 00:55:03.710
And so when it was time to decide,
when I was 18 what to do,
00:55:04.250 --> 00:55:07.010
I thought this would be fantastic.
00:55:23.650 --> 00:55:26.690
The Paulée de Meursault has become
absolutely legendary
00:55:26.690 --> 00:55:30.950
and it's now imitated in some form
or other all over the world.
00:55:31.490 --> 00:55:33.990
There's a number of events
that call themselves the Paulée,
00:55:33.990 --> 00:55:36.290
but none of them really come close.
00:55:36.290 --> 00:55:38.910
But there is one
that is really, really special
00:55:38.910 --> 00:55:40.330
in its own right.
00:55:42.500 --> 00:55:44.880
It happens
just a few kilometers from Meursault,
00:55:44.880 --> 00:55:48.760
it's underneath the streets of Beaune
in a cellar
00:55:48.760 --> 00:55:51.300
that dates back to the Roman times.
00:55:53.470 --> 00:55:55.850
It's called the Burgundy Friends Paulée.
00:56:00.810 --> 00:56:05.690
It was created in 2003 when Veronique Drouhin
finally got tired of constantly
00:56:05.690 --> 00:56:08.490
getting calls from friends and customers
all over the world, saying,
00:56:08.570 --> 00:56:11.530
Can you get me into the Paulée de Meursault.
00:56:11.530 --> 00:56:13.490
And oh, they're all good friends
and they all want to please them,
00:56:13.490 --> 00:56:14.200
but I know I can not.
00:56:14.200 --> 00:56:16.990
So I can ask the committee.
00:56:16.990 --> 00:56:20.960
And they always say, Yeah, we can give you
one or two more, but not 25.
00:56:20.960 --> 00:56:23.750
So I turned to my husband and said, Oh,
I have this problem of people
00:56:23.750 --> 00:56:27.250
who are ready
to share their beautiful wine.
00:56:27.250 --> 00:56:29.800
And so then you said, Well,
maybe we can find the chef
00:56:29.800 --> 00:56:31.170
and we can find a place
00:56:31.170 --> 00:56:33.840
where they can bring their wines
and we should invite some producers.
00:56:34.220 --> 00:56:37.310
So that's how we proposed
to a few producers and to these people
00:56:37.350 --> 00:56:39.430
we said, sure, let's do it.
00:56:43.690 --> 00:56:45.940
It was not very classic for people
to keep wine.
00:56:45.980 --> 00:56:48.320
My grandfather would make the wine
and sell it.
00:56:48.320 --> 00:56:52.530
So it's not so often in Burgundy
that people have a lot of old bottles,
00:56:52.530 --> 00:56:53.530
a few have some.
00:56:53.530 --> 00:56:57.580
But if you talk to growers, their very rare,
including with us,
00:56:57.580 --> 00:57:00.620
because it was a difficult time,
it was the world you had to survive.
00:57:00.830 --> 00:57:02.710
Everybody was making a little money.
00:57:02.710 --> 00:57:05.040
So, so but the wines exist.
00:57:05.210 --> 00:57:09.550
So they've been sold through the world
and we have people who collect them,
00:57:09.550 --> 00:57:14.050
bring them back to Beaune
and share them with us.
00:57:18.430 --> 00:57:22.310
It was my best memory in tasting wine,
oh my God,
00:57:22.310 --> 00:57:24.600
so many Montrachet, so many.
00:57:25.770 --> 00:57:26.400
All the
00:57:26.400 --> 00:57:29.400
Grand Crus of Burgundy, on the same lunch
00:57:29.940 --> 00:57:32.150
from noon to
00:57:34.110 --> 00:57:36.160
7:00 and maybe
00:57:36.610 --> 00:57:39.830
70 different wines and all Grand Cru
00:57:40.790 --> 00:57:43.160
Lucky guys, we are!
00:57:50.800 --> 00:57:55.050
Every year at the Burgundy Friends, Paulée a different
Michelin-starred chef, is invited,
00:57:55.050 --> 00:57:59.220
and this year it was Jean-Michel Lorain
from La Côte Saint Jacques up by Chablis.
00:57:59.220 --> 00:58:02.020
He, years ago
became the youngest chef ever
00:58:02.020 --> 00:58:05.480
to be awarded three Michelin stars.
00:58:06.100 --> 00:58:07.560
They called me and they asked me
00:58:07.560 --> 00:58:10.360
to be the guest chef for for this event.
00:58:10.360 --> 00:58:12.610
And I was very proud.
00:58:13.440 --> 00:58:15.700
We cook for we cook for others.
00:58:15.700 --> 00:58:16.610
We cook for people.
00:58:16.610 --> 00:58:20.240
We cook for guests, we cook for friends,
we cook for the family.
00:58:20.240 --> 00:58:21.990
And to share
00:58:25.710 --> 00:58:29.080
When you create something
new, it's a new challenge,
00:58:29.080 --> 00:58:31.960
It's something we do together
with my chef and my sous chef.
00:58:31.960 --> 00:58:36.720
So that's very exciting to
to to create something new.
00:58:36.720 --> 00:58:39.640
But maybe the, the,
00:58:39.930 --> 00:58:44.890
the thing I, I prefer is just to see
00:58:44.890 --> 00:58:46.430
my guests
00:58:46.430 --> 00:58:51.980
with a larger smile after eating the food.
00:58:56.990 --> 00:59:01.070
And we need to adapt a little bit
to our food because I know that
00:59:01.070 --> 00:59:05.080
it's a little bit extreme conditions.
00:59:06.540 --> 00:59:09.870
The most difficult thing
is to be in a place we don't know.
00:59:09.870 --> 00:59:13.590
I mean, it's a very small kitchen
00:59:15.130 --> 00:59:16.300
that's a challenge to
00:59:16.300 --> 00:59:19.630
to pair our food
with all those great wines.
00:59:19.630 --> 00:59:24.100
And the
I mean, there will be so many wines.
00:59:35.480 --> 00:59:39.070
It was in 2004. There was a man that I didn't know.
00:59:39.070 --> 00:59:43.450
I was told by Michael Rockefeller
said, Veronique, you should invite this.
00:59:43.830 --> 00:59:46.450
This man from the US he's very nice, loves
00:59:46.450 --> 00:59:50.580
your wine, has a huge collection
said sure invite him on my behalf.
00:59:50.580 --> 00:59:55.550
And so this man arrives
and he's a bit older and he's holding.
00:59:55.550 --> 00:59:59.220
And then it was
an amazing bottle. It was a Clos de Vougeot
00:59:59.220 --> 01:00:03.430
1904 never had the one before,
of course, never had
01:00:03.430 --> 01:00:07.220
the wine of these vintage made by Joseph Drouhin
01:00:07.270 --> 01:00:08.810
because Joseph was still making the wine.
01:00:08.810 --> 01:00:11.640
until 1918, the year he died.
01:00:11.640 --> 01:00:17.280
So, imagine the moment, and he said,
I don't know if it's going to be any good.
01:00:17.280 --> 01:00:20.450
But it’s so nice to share it
with a member of the family.
01:00:20.450 --> 01:00:23.660
These are moments you will never forget.
01:00:49.310 --> 01:00:52.770
I think that in 30, 40, 50 years, unfortunately,
01:00:52.770 --> 01:00:54.980
the small vignerons are going to disappear.
01:00:58.610 --> 01:01:03.910
Burgundy, unfortunately, is in the process of losing its identity.
01:01:03.910 --> 01:01:08.080
The vineyards have a value that is stratospheric,
01:01:08.080 --> 01:01:10.450
and unfortunately it won't be the small vignerons,
01:01:10.450 --> 01:01:12.120
like me and many others,
01:01:12.120 --> 01:01:14.330
who will be able to buy vineyards.
01:01:15.540 --> 01:01:18.210
We're going to return to how it was in the 18th century:
01:01:18.210 --> 01:01:20.250
all the vineyards will belong to 10 big
01:01:20.250 --> 01:01:22.760
bourgeois families or the big negociants.
01:01:23.880 --> 01:01:27.760
It would be all the big negotiations
and a handful of luxury brands
01:01:27.760 --> 01:01:31.890
and that would be all that was available
if the small guys went away.
01:01:34.140 --> 01:01:39.270
I believe Burgundy is it at an époque charnière, which is a tipping point.
01:01:39.480 --> 01:01:43.700
I think we can say you can now
get good one in Oregon and in the in the
01:01:43.700 --> 01:01:47.570
the other regions of the New World,
there are old vines.
01:01:49.410 --> 01:01:53.120
So I think, you know, people
are going to say, okay, Burgundy goes up.
01:01:53.450 --> 01:01:54.830
I don't necessarily need Burgundy.
01:01:54.830 --> 01:01:56.620
I can buy something else.
01:01:58.710 --> 01:02:02.760
Now in Burgundy there are a lot of people who take themselves for God
01:02:02.760 --> 01:02:05.470
and think their wine can be sold for,
01:02:05.470 --> 01:02:07.300
like in Bordeaux 10 years ago,
01:02:07.300 --> 01:02:08.970
up to a thousand euros per bottle,
01:02:08.970 --> 01:02:10.810
1,500, 2,000, 3,000, 5,000.
01:02:10.810 --> 01:02:12.180
But Stop! Stop!
01:02:12.930 --> 01:02:14.730
It's wine!
01:02:20.980 --> 01:02:25.450
If you put
your price up by too much for that wine,
01:02:25.450 --> 01:02:29.200
they're going to buy from elsewhere,
01:02:29.200 --> 01:02:32.120
they don't need your appellation.
01:02:34.040 --> 01:02:38.830
To me, it's essential that all of these small,
01:02:38.830 --> 01:02:41.920
struggling estates should be directly helped with an infusion of money.
01:02:41.920 --> 01:02:45.670
We do it all the time for other forms of agriculture in France.
01:02:45.670 --> 01:02:52.220
We give aid, money, to the farmers, when they're victims of a catastrophy,
01:02:52.220 --> 01:02:56.600
but we never do it for the winegrowers, who are considered rich,
01:02:56.600 --> 01:03:02.150
and I think of some of my friends in Volnay, Pommard and Beaune
01:03:02.150 --> 01:03:05.230
who are in distress right now,
01:03:05.230 --> 01:03:09.990
and I say to myself, "they deserve to be helped."
01:03:18.120 --> 01:03:21.130
The weather is really,
01:03:21.130 --> 01:03:23.750
really changing it's really crazy.
01:03:23.750 --> 01:03:27.220
Crazy if it keeps going in that direction,
01:03:27.220 --> 01:03:30.640
if it keeps getting, you know,
five out of six years are very difficult.
01:03:30.640 --> 01:03:33.890
Then what? Then what will you do?
01:03:33.890 --> 01:03:34.850
I don't know.
01:03:34.970 --> 01:03:38.140
I don't know.
01:03:38.140 --> 01:03:40.480
I'm sure we are in the middle
of a big changing.
01:03:40.690 --> 01:03:44.110
We have to change our way of
01:03:44.360 --> 01:03:47.690
manage our winery.
01:03:49.610 --> 01:03:54.240
It was normal to pick in October
34 years ago,
01:03:54.240 --> 01:03:58.620
and now it's kind of normal
to pick it on the 15th of September, 20th
01:03:58.620 --> 01:04:00.870
of September.
01:04:02.580 --> 01:04:08.130
Every selection
we've done so far from from ever
01:04:08.130 --> 01:04:12.550
in Burgundy has been for early ripening
Pinot Noir and early ripening
01:04:12.550 --> 01:04:17.220
Chardonnay, we still have
a lot of massale, or very old vines here.
01:04:17.220 --> 01:04:21.730
And among these,
there are vines that ripen later.
01:04:21.730 --> 01:04:26.190
And we should think about selecting
those type of plants
01:04:26.190 --> 01:04:27.820
for the future.
01:04:33.870 --> 01:04:35.450
We must adapt.
01:04:35.450 --> 01:04:43.120
We must be smarter with our viticulture and adapt to the new climate.
01:04:43.120 --> 01:04:48.090
because the weather could be even more variable than before.
01:04:48.090 --> 01:04:49.920
We truly must adapt.
01:04:51.800 --> 01:04:54.180
No, for the time being,
01:04:54.180 --> 01:04:56.930
for Burgundy, I am not worried at all.
01:05:28.790 --> 01:05:32.590
I think we will be
we will do our best more and more.
01:05:32.590 --> 01:05:37.350
And the new generation is really,
really considering just the really lucky
01:05:37.350 --> 01:05:39.970
to have some vineyards here in Burgundy.
01:05:39.970 --> 01:05:44.980
And so they respect them on them
and they would like to make more
01:05:44.980 --> 01:05:46.150
exceptional wines.
01:05:46.150 --> 01:05:47.060
I think
01:05:54.900 --> 01:05:57.990
And because the next generation to come,
01:05:57.990 --> 01:06:01.990
that of my son, who's doing his studies in enology,
01:06:01.990 --> 01:06:06.370
are at the same time better educated and more curious,
01:06:06.370 --> 01:06:11.960
and they have the scientific understanding that
01:06:11.960 --> 01:06:14.220
will permit them to do things more clearly
01:06:14.220 --> 01:06:16.720
in the vineyards, to be less interventionist.
01:06:19.180 --> 01:06:25.060
I'm worried for the future of the region
and I think they will adapt and change.
01:06:25.060 --> 01:06:28.690
It's their family, heritage
and it's not within them
01:06:28.690 --> 01:06:31.690
to just take the money and run
because they're looking two
01:06:31.690 --> 01:06:34.900
or three generations down the line
with everything that they do here.
01:06:34.900 --> 01:06:38.240
And their whole mission in life
is to farm these lands
01:06:38.240 --> 01:06:41.200
and make these wines
and then pass it on to their kids.
01:06:41.200 --> 01:06:42.990
And that doesn't occur to them.
01:06:42.990 --> 01:06:45.790
I really believe it doesn't occur
to them to just say, you know what,
01:06:45.790 --> 01:06:49.250
let's check it out.
01:06:49.250 --> 01:06:51.840
No, we never thought of stopping.
01:06:51.840 --> 01:06:54.420
I've been doing this for 40 years.
01:06:54.420 --> 01:06:58.590
My father and grandfather knew some horrible vintages in their times.
01:07:01.350 --> 01:07:03.760
We don't think of quitting.
01:07:03.760 --> 01:07:06.180
I think it's a difficult profession,
01:07:06.180 --> 01:07:10.150
but we can't allow ourselves to think of stopping.
01:07:10.480 --> 01:07:14.150
What gives me hope, is that in general,
01:07:14.150 --> 01:07:16.820
after years with a heavy frost.
01:07:16.820 --> 01:07:19.200
the following years have been relatively abundant.
01:07:21.780 --> 01:07:24.790
I'm happy to do it.
01:07:24.790 --> 01:07:29.620
But I hope that next year gives us a better harvest.
01:07:29.620 --> 01:07:33.290
The old people in Pommard are all saying that
01:07:33.290 --> 01:07:38.050
in 2017 we should have a good harvest.
01:07:38.050 --> 01:07:39.840
We hope.
01:07:43.430 --> 01:07:47.270
You always expect to make the vintage
01:07:47.270 --> 01:07:50.100
even if you have some great
and some exceptional wine,
01:07:50.100 --> 01:07:52.860
you always expect something
like the jackpot.
01:07:56.730 --> 01:08:00.070
The challenge we have is that nature is stronger than all of this.
01:08:00.070 --> 01:08:04.200
So next year it's the new
01:08:04.200 --> 01:08:06.450
it's like a new baby
01:08:06.450 --> 01:08:09.290
and you can have a wonderful baby
01:08:09.290 --> 01:08:12.120
next year and we all pray about it.
01:08:12.120 --> 01:08:15.670
And this is why we we are all always
01:08:15.670 --> 01:08:19.380
very positive because we we we know that
01:08:20.930 --> 01:08:22.430
the year after
01:08:22.430 --> 01:08:25.260
could be magical.
Distributor: Collective Eye Films
Length: 72 minutes
Date: 2018
Genre: Expository
Language: English / English subtitles
Grade: 10-12, College, Adults
Color/BW:
Closed Captioning: Available
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